500 Adrenaline Adventures (Frommer's) - Lois Friedland [101]
This long-dormant volcano is in Russia, just north of its border with Georgia. Most visitors fly from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody, then take a 4-hour bus ride to Azau, a remote outpost in the shadow of Elbrus. Because of the numerous bureaucratic and security issues involved (including visas, permits, and registrations), most climbers are better off working with an outfitter who can handle the details.
Altitude and weather are serious concerns when hiking Mount Elbrus.
When choosing an outfitter, remember that about 20 people die each year trying to reach the summit of Mount Elbus, usually due to poorly organized and equipped groups trekking beyond their means. Though little technical mountaineering experience is needed here, some training is required because there are real risks involved—the weather at these altitudes is unstable, temperatures even in summer can be extremely cold, and low oxygen can cause serious health problems. Be sure to ask your outfitter about their safety record.
There are several routes to the top, and the one known as “the normal route” is supported by a cable car and chairlift system, which can shorten the trip to a few hours. It can also get a little crowded in summer, with dozens of peak-baggers making quick ascents. When it comes time to descend, some adventurers break out their touring skis and take a downhill run that’s as unforgettable as it is demanding. Elsewhere in the area, Terskol—known to some as the Chamonix of the Caucasus—boasts a couple of lift systems and plenty of hotels catering to skiers. —ML
Elbrus Info Site (www.elbrus.org).
Tours: Geographic Bureau, P.O. Box 375, St. Petersburg, Russia ( 7/812/230-5794;www.geographicbureau.com). Alpine Ascents International, 121 Mercer St., Seattle, WA 98109 ( 206/378-1927;www.alpineascents.com).
When to Go: May–Sept.
$$$ Hotel Ozon-Cheget, Cheget Glade ( 7/866/387-1453;www.hotelozon.ru). $$ Hotel Balkaria, Azau Glade ( 7/866/387-1257).
206
Moaning Caverns
Rappelling into Darkness
Vallecito, California, U.S.A.
The Statue of Liberty would fit comfortably inside the depths of Moaning Cavern, one of California’s largest caves, about 100 miles (161km) southeast of Sacramento in the town of Vallecito. From the opening to the cave floor, it’s 165 feet (50m) down—a drop that seems to double if you’re dangling from a rope above the abyss. Some visitors take the 234 scrap metal steps to the cave floor, but rappelling is a vastly more thrilling if terrifying way down.
The first half-dozen feet are easy, down a rock shelf, but then the bottom falls out, and nothing comes between you and the cave floor but your gear and thin air. The cavern is lit, so there’s no mistaking the distance. As you and several others work your way down simultaneously, hand over hand, limestone formations come into view, as well as the stairs, one by one underscoring how far you are from solid ground. It’s most nerve-wracking if a rappeller below you slows or stops or gets hung up; all you can do is hang there until he gets moving.
Once you reach the bottom, you’re unharnessed and have the opportunity to learn about the cave. You’ll see bones of prehistoric locals who lacked rappelling gear. The Miwok Indians reportedly used the cavern as a convenient burial ground years ago, and the bones of humans and animals have been found here. An optional 2-hour spelunking tour takes you through unlit, meandering caverns. You’ll crawl or slide along the wet, muddy floors and squeeze through narrow openings to see some wonderful stalactites and stalagmites.
You’ll need tied shoes to rappel down the sheer face—flip-flops don’t make it. You’ll also have to sign a release form and watch an instructional video before you start down. A member of the Sierra Nevada Recreation staff fits you with a hard hat, gloves, coveralls, kneepads, and lights. Then you move over to the “pit,” where they check your gear, give you a few last words of instruction,