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to many of the ice routes is within 15 minutes to 1 hour of town. Beginners head to La Cremerie, in Argentiere, where some easier routes can be found. Other ice-climbing spots are located on both sides of the Argentiere Glacier, the Col des Montets and Le Tour. According to Alps Adventures (see below), a guiding service that offers ice-climbing courses and takes ice-climbers on multi-pitch routes in the Chamonix Valley and the Cogne Valley in Italy, some of the ice falls have belays and most have abseil descents. The ice falls at the higher altitudes usually begin forming in December, followed by the falls at lower altitudes in January. The best climbing months are January and February.

Ice climbing is inherently dangerous and many safety factors must be taken into consideration while deciding when and where to climb. Unless you are very experienced and know this region extremely well (and even then), it’s highly advisable to climb with a certified mountain guide. The Chamonix tourist office has a list of qualified mountain guides. In town, Alps Adventures offers ice-climbing courses for beginner and intermediates. Ice-climbing equipment can be purchased or rented at Snell Sports (104 Rue Du Docteur Paccard; 33/450530217; www.cham3s.com).

Chamonix is a wonderful home base for all variety of cold-weather adrenaline adventures. It has long been considered one of the most popular European villages for alpine skiing. Around the valley there are five main resorts, with lifts and cable cars (see ) coming down to the town’s edge. Skiers throughout the world have heard of the famous Vallee Blanche, a 19km (12-mile) ski that is one of the most challenging in Europe.

Chamonix, which sprawls in a narrow strip along both banks of the Arve River, is a stopping point for travelers who have gone through the Mont Blanc tunnel from Italy. In the summertime, the town fills with hikers eager to get on the trails in the surrounding mountains, and mountain climbers who want to challenge Mont Blanc, Western Europe’s highest peak. —LF

Chamonix Valley ( 33/450/53-00-24;www.chamonix.com).

Tour: Alps Adventures ( 33/670/069 143;www.alps-adventure.com).

When to Go: Jan–Feb.

Geneva (81km/50 miles).

$ Chalet Chantel, 391 Route de Pêcles ( 33/450-530-669; www.skiambiance.co.uk). $ Hotel de l’Arve, 60 Impasses des Anémones ( 33/450/53-02-31; www.hotelarve-chamonix.com).

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Ice Climbing in Canmore

Scaling Frozen Waterfalls

Canadian Rockies Around Canmore, Canada

So many waterfalls and ice floes cling to the mountainsides in the stretch of the Canadian Rockies between Canmore and Jasper, the biggest decision you’ll have to make is where to climb. The beauty of this region is that so many of the frozen waterfalls are easily reached. There’s no need to trek for long distances, and that may be one of the reasons climbers from all over the globe show up here.

Canmore, a small town about 100km (62 miles) north of Calgary, is where the hardcore climbers gather. Within a 100km (62-mile) radius, there are plenty of places to climb. Climbing guides at Yamnuska (see below), a local mountaineering shop, offer the following ice climbs.

The shop’s guides take beginning climbers who want lessons to nearby Junkyards, one big ice flow frozen at a moderately steep angle. Another popular spot, where the ice climbs tend to be grade 4 and higher, is the mountainside around the town of Field, just west of Lake Louise. The narrow Johnston Canyon has a mix of beginner to advanced ice climbs along one wall. If you want to drive along the scenic Icefields Parkway, which links Lake Louise and Jasper, there are several popular climbs including Polar Circus and The Weeping Wall, which has several different lines. Waterfall Ice by Joe Josephson, published by Rocky Mountain Books, is a comprehensive reference to ice climbing in this region.

Ice climbing is a popular sport in the Canadian Rockies.

No matter where you climb, it is vital to check current avalanche conditions and the avalanche forecast before heading out. Park Canada says, “Ice climbing is an inherently