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500 Adrenaline Adventures (Frommer's) - Lois Friedland [113]

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in awe year after year.

The Frio bat cave is located about 80 miles (129km) west of San Antonio, deep in the heart of the Texas Hill Country. The cave is tucked away on a private ranch, but it’s open to the public by taking an inexpensive scheduled tour. The tours operate on a weather-permitting schedule; call ahead for details. There are several other caves in the area that also host millions of bats, but they’re closed to the public.

This nightly ritual, when the Mexican free-tail bats come out to feed, involves so many bats that they show up on weather radar as rain clouds. And like rain clouds, they’re a welcome sight to Texas farmers—the bats eat roughly 2 million pounds of insects each night, including those that destroy local crops.

Bats head out of the Frio Bat Cave into the Texas sunset.

While waiting for the bats to emerge, you’ll be treated to a tale of the cave’s history. From the Civil War through World War I, it was mined for bat guano, which was used to make gunpowder; the guano drying kilns are still standing near the cave’s entrance. A much stranger part of military history comes from World War II, when bats from the cave were trapped to take part in top-secret Project X-Ray; it was believed that thousands of bats carrying small incendiary devices could be released over Japan, setting off thousands of fires—the plan was scuttled in favor of the atomic bomb, and the bats returned to civilian life. —ML

Tour: Hill Country Adventures ( 830/966-2320;www.hillcountryadventures.com).

When to Go: Apr–Nov.

San Antonio (83 miles/134km).

$$ Neal’s Lodges, Concan ( 830/232-6118;www.nealslodges.com). $$ River Haven Cabins, Ranch Rd. 1120, Leakey ( 866/232-5400;www.riverhavencabins.com).


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Caving, Spanish Style

Enveloped in Darkness

Mallorca (Majorca), Spain

Bring up Mallorca, the island off the southeast coast of Spain, and people usually think of cultured pearls and beaches. But this limestone island is honeycombed with more than 200 caves and home to many caving adventure opportunities. The caves range in category from those appropriate for the casual tourist who wants simply to visit a cave to more recreational caving opportunities to those caves appropriate only for those with experience in the more technical and challenging aspects of caving. No matter which category you fit into, there’s a caving adventure awaiting you in Mallorca.

The casual tourist who wants to go caving on Mallorca might be sent to the well known Cuevas del Drach (Dragon Caves) outside of Porto Cristo for a 2km (11⁄4-mile), 1-hour tour. You’ll walk to and can even ride to the underground lake. The chamber is roomy enough for approximately 1,000 visitors who are provided with a short classical music concert. Then you’re hustled out. Commercial kitsch? Yes. But it’s an opportunity to see some great formations. Try to take the first or last tour to minimize the crowd experience. The Cuevas dels Hams, also near Porto Cristo, are popular, too. The Cueva de Arta, located approximately 5km (3 miles) from Arta, on the east coast, with its large entrance and huge 7m-high (24-ft.) stalagmite, is the one of the highest caves in Europe. Arta also has some great sightseeing, including the Sanctuary of Saint Salvador and the Church of the Transfiguracio.

Those searching for a more active and recreational caving experience often opt for less-trodden caves. Some caves have been outfitted with lights and walkways among other manmade amenities so commercial companies can take tours into them. Going into a non-commercial cave is quite an exciting experience. Turn off your lights and the darkness envelopes you. There is little to compare to this sensation. (Be aware of your limits, however; some people experience bouts of claustrophobia.) In many places along this expedition you’re inching along on your back or belly and the ceiling is only inches over your head. The reward is seeing the great stalactites, stalagmites, and columns Mother Nature created over thousands of years.

Technical level caves should be left to skilled and experienced

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