500 Adrenaline Adventures (Frommer's) - Lois Friedland [136]
The Kashbah du Toubkal.
The journey begins with a fairly steep zigzag route to an easier roadway that takes you through a small gorge, past the village of Aremd. After crossing into a valley of fields and orchards, you’ll continue trekking for about 2 hours, along the mountain paths with only sparse vegetation, sheep, and goats until you reach Sidi Chamharouch (2,320m/7,612 ft.). There are several small shops and cafes at this settlement, as well as a white-roofed mosque and water that is supposed to have healing powers. About 2 hours later, you’ll approach Neltner Hut. If you’d rather not sleep in the tented encampment here, which is quite nice by camping standards, you can arrange accommodations in a local Berber family’s home or at the Toubkal Lodge.
The next day, hiking begins again after crossing a small river gorge and walking up a steep slope for about 2 hours until you reach Tizi-n-Toubkal (3,940m/12,927 ft.). The altitude here can make you dizzy and nauseous, so remember to walk slowly and drink plenty of water as you follow the mountain ridge for another 3 to 4 hours until you reach the summit.
At the summit are a large, iron, pyramidal structure and excellent views—haze and weather permitting. Look toward the south, where you can see the Saharan plateau broken by the extinct volcano Siroua. After you descend, plan to spend another night at the kasbah and relax your tired muscles with a long scrub in the beautiful hammam (Morocan bath). —JS
Moroccan Tourist Office ( 212/537-67-4013 or 212/537-3918; www.visitmorocco.com).
Tour: Mountain Voyage Morocco ( 212/524-42-1996;www.mountain-voyage.com).
When to Go: Apr–Oct.
Marrakesh-Menara Airport.
$$–$$$ Kasbah du Toubkal, Imil ( 33/052-905-0135;www.kasbahdutoubkal.com).
265
Valle de la Luna
An Out-of-This-World Adventure
Atacama Desert, Chile
If you’ve ever wanted to take a walk on the moon, this is the place for you. Set in the Cordillera de la Sal (or Salt Mountains), west of San Pedro de Atacama (about a 2-hr. flight from Santiago) and south of the new highway, the Valley de la Luna (or Valley of the Moon) has an otherworldly feel. The unique formations of reddish-brown stone, petrified salt, and sand have been molded by floods and winds over thousands of years. Virtually no rain has fallen here to alter the landscape or help things grow; the Atacama Desert is the driest place on earth.
The best way to explore this surreal terrain is to climb the massive sand dunes, and the prime time to do it is in the late afternoon. As dusk falls, the light casts long shadows on the vast expanses. The wind whisks grains of sand back and forth, creating a sort of moving mountain beneath your feet as you make your way across the flat peaks of massive dunes. Walking across the narrow top of a sand dune at such a high altitude is a bit dizzying, but mostly you feel like the “King (or Queen) of the Mountain.” Once you get your balance and some confidence, walk faster or run. Just make sure you’ve reached a good spot to witness one of the world’s most magnificent sunsets.
The temperature drops quickly after the sun falls, so roll down the dunes and head back to the tiny town of San Pedro for dinner. Afterward (or the following night if you’re too tired), dress warmly and head out into the darkness to gaze at the countless stars twinkling in the sky. Because of the desert’s high altitude, nearly non-existent cloud cover, and lack of light pollution or radio interference, it‘s one of the best places in the world to conduct astronomical observations. You can see this for yourself on an astronomical tour—led by French astronomer Alain Maury and his wife—called SPACE Agency, Caracole St. 166 ( 565/585-1935 or 569/817-8354; www.spaceobs.com). You’ll take a van to the couple’s home, where you’ll view