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By Root 697 0

Iceland’s most popular and exhilarating experiences is the Laugavegurinn, a 4-day trek to Thorsmork, an alpine oasis. If you’re short on time, skip the Ring Road and catch a bus from Reykjavik to get here. You can make arrangements with The Icelandic Touring Association ( 354/568-2533; www.fi.is) to stay in mountain huts along the way. Whatever fascinating elements of fire and ice you discover in Iceland, you won’t be disappointed. In fact, you might even start conjuring up your next trip back here on your plane ride home. —JS

Iceland Tourist Board ( 800/245-6555;www.icelandtouristboard.com).

Tours: Arctic Adventures, Laugavegur 11 ( 354/562-7000;www.adventures.is). Nonni Travel, Brekkugata 5 ( 354/461-1841;www.nonnitravel.is).

When to Go: May–Sept; Dec–Jan to see the Northern Lights.

Keflavik International Airport.

$–$$ Alfholl Guesthouse, Ranargata 8, Reykjavik ( 354/898-1838;www.islandia.is/alf). $$ Hilton Reykjavik Nordica, Sudurlandsbraut 2, Reykjavik ( 354/444-5000;www1.hilton.com).

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River Boating Along the Amazon

Where the Wild Things Are

From Iquitos, Peru

The Amazon has tempted explorers since the 16th century when an intrepid European first encountered it. In 1912, after losing the election for a third term as president, Teddy Roosevelt set off into the deepest depths of the Brazilian jungle and ventured toward one of its then uncharted tributaries known as the River of Doubt. Today, the world’s largest river by volume and second longest (after the Nile) is much easier to navigate, but just as alluring.

Most boat rides into the Upper Amazon begin in Iquitos—the most populous city in the world that’s unreachable by road, and an adventure destination in its own right. This urban oasis is a good spot to settle in for a few days before immersing yourself in the rainforest. Don’t miss the open-air Belen Market, where you’ll get a taste of local life.

A canopy walkway suspended above the great river.

From Iquitos, you’ll travel about 80km (50 miles) down the Amazon. Traveling along the dark waters, far into the depths of the wild, your senses become increasingly acute and your heart pounds, unsure of what might be lurking around the next bend. The Amazon is home to a vast biodiversity: more than 2,000 species of fish; 4,000 different kinds of birds; 60 reptiles, including anaconda, the world’s largest non-poisonous snake; and mammals ranging from anteaters and pumas to dolphins and crocodiles. Scientists are still working to classify it all, and environmentalists are still striving to preserve this wondrous part of earth.

When you reach the Yanamono Stream, you’ll check into the secluded Explorama Lodge. Using this as your base for a day or two, you’ll hike through the lowland rainforest or take short boat excursions if the water’s too high to walk through. You may even spot a freshwater dolphin.

Next, head farther into the Amazon until you reach the Napo River, where there’s a field station for research and another solitary lodge nearby, this one a bit more rustic than the last. Here, you can walk across a swaying canopy walkway, suspended high up in the treetops, that spans 500m (1⁄3 mile) and reaches more than 35m (115 ft.) above the forest floor. You can take other boating excursions, hike into the forest to learn about medicinal plants with a shaman, visit with local river people, and even take a jungle walk at night. When it’s finally time to retire to your lodge or camp out beneath the pitch black sky, you may or may not actually glimpse the nocturnal animals lurking around, but just knowing they’re somewhere out there is enough to keep your heart racing and eyes open for part of the night. —JS

Peru Tourism Bureau (www.visitperu.com).

Tour: Amazon Explorama Lodges ( 51/65-25-2530;www.explorama.com).

When to Go: Dec–May for the highest waters and most boat excursions; July–Oct for more trekking.

Iquitos airport.

Make a Difference

Taking a trip that includes volunteering in a local community or helping after a natural disaster can be an extremely gratifying experience. Combine that altruistic