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500 Adrenaline Adventures (Frommer's) - Lois Friedland [146]

By Root 753 0
’ll do more than just see the animal kingdom—you’ll become a part of it.

The famed Okavango Delta, the largest inland delta in the world, covers more than 15,000 sq. km (5,800 sq. miles) of flood plains in the northwestern part of Botswana. This oasis of waterways, islands, and forests—surrounded by a sea of desert—attracts the most coveted game, including the Big Five: lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards, and rhinoceros. As these mighty creatures wander freely through the wilderness here, you’ll roam along with them.

Okavango Horse Safaris, based on the banks of the Xudum River, takes no more than eight experienced riders at a time into the western Delta and a private area bordering the Moremi Game Reserve. You must be able to trot for at least 10 minutes at a time, and know how to gallop out of trouble if the need arises. You should also be prepared to spend 4 to 6 hours in the saddle per day. As you’re riding, you might get lucky and come upon a pride of lions, relaxing after their feast, or a leopard enjoying his recent kill. But if one of these powerful beasts seems hungry, you’ll need to get out of its way—and quickly. In addition to the Big Five, other creatures commonly spotted include giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, kudus, impalas, antelopes, duikers, foxes, jackals, wildcats, monkeys, badgers, hyenas, warthogs, tortoises, ostriches, hippos, and crocodiles. Countless birds fly above and around you, and your guides are well versed in the various species.

Itineraries last between 5 and 10 days, and include stays at the Kujwana Camp (with spacious, permanent tents that include en-suite bathrooms), the Moklowane Camp (which offers tree houses with private bathrooms), and the Qwaapo Camp (a “fly camp” with traditional safari tents and camping beds that can be easily moved, bucket showers, and bush toilets). The best time to ride is in the early morning or late afternoon, away from the hot midday sun. When you’re ready for a break, don’t miss taking a trip in a traditional mokoro, a narrow, canoe-like boat that allows you to quietly explore the delta’s shallow waterways.

After a full day, as the dark red sun sinks beneath the horizon, you can sit by a campfire, reminiscing about your adventurous ride. Perhaps you’ll hear a hyena’s laugh interrupt the other animals’ rhythmic chorus. As you sip a gin and tonic, waiting for dinner, you’ll easily feel right at home. —JS

Botswana Tourism Board, Plot 50676, Fairgrounds Office Park, Gaborone ( 888/675-7660;www.botswanatourism.co.bw).

Tour: Okavango Horse Safaris, Okavango Delta ( 267/686-1671;www.okavangohorse.com).

When to Go: Apr–Oct.

Maun Airport.


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Birding in Panama

Catching a Glimpse of the Quetzal

Panama City to the Chiriqui Highlands, Panama

The euphoria of spotting a rare bird in its own habitat can become mildly addictive. For self-proclaimed birders—nature enthusiasts who often chronicle the species they’ve seen on long lists or in detailed notebooks—the challenge of trying to glimpse some of the world’s most beautiful but elusive creatures has a hugely rewarding payoff. Even for non-birders, it’s easy to get caught up in the birds’ game of hide and go seek. As Hernan Arauz, one of Panama’s most reputable birding guides, said, “Once you see, through a good scope or binocular, a crimson-backed tanager, a blue cotinga, or for that matter, a resplendent quetzal . . . in good light, in its own habitat, feeding, flirting, or just perching, your brain will experience a sensation that not even the finest glossy National Geographic photo can accomplish. You will know that it’s alive . . . in real time. The iridescence of its plumage will dazzle your perception, enrich your memory, and trigger the desire to see more.”

You can begin marveling at Panama’s vast bird population less than an hour outside of Panama City, at the Canopy Tower, an eco-lodge in Soberania National Park. More than 280 different species of birds have been spotted in this vicinity, and you can admire some of them right from your room’s observation deck. Of course, you’ll also want to spend

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