500 Adrenaline Adventures (Frommer's) - Lois Friedland [149]
The road then cuts inland past the Otway Lighthouse, built by convicts in 1848. This area is a great place to see some wildlife at the Cape Otway Centre for Conservation Ecology and perhaps spend the night. You’ll want to be alert for the next part of the drive, as it spectacularly winds along 61m (200-ft.) sea cliffs. Be sure to stop and see the Twelve Apostles, a world-renowned series of wave-chiseled rock formations; the London Bridge, which looked like the real thing until the middle portion crashed into the ocean in 1990; and the Loch Ard Gorge. Before you hit Port Fairy, stop in the Aboriginal-run Tower Hill Nature Preserve ( 03/5561-5315;www.worngundidj.org.au).
The Great Ocean Road officially ends in Warrnambool. If you want to try the curves going the other direction, turn around and head back toward Melbourne. But even adventure junkies need a break sometimes. If you’ve had enough adrenaline for one trip, take the easier inland route back and head an hour north into the rural Southern Grampians Ranges. You can stay next to a fully operating sheep station at the Royal Mail Hotel’s Mt. Sturgeon Cottages ( 03/5577-2241;www.royalmail.com.au). —JS
Great Ocean Road Visitors Centre ( 03/5275-5797;www.greatoceanrd.org.au).
When to Go: Anytime, but particularly in the summer and fall (Nov–May).
Melbourne Airport, approx. an hour-long drive from the eastern start of the Great Ocean Road.
$$–$$$ Great Ocean Eco-Lodge, Cape Otway ( 03/5237-9297;www.capeotwaycentre.com.au). $$ Sea Foam Villas, Port Campbell ( 03/5598-6413;www.seafoamvillas.com).
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The Amalfi Drive
Hugging the Curves on Italy’s Raciest Road
Sorrento to Salerno, Italy
Most Italians don’t just drive; they race. They tailgate, pass other cars with inches to spare between them, and lean on the horn—all of which makes getting behind the wheel on Italian roads challenging at best and terrifying at worst. But their recklessness won’t stop you from taking the most adrenaline-inducing road trip in Europe. Just remember to drive carefully. Very carefully.
The Amalfi Drive.
The hairpin curves on the Amalfi Drive (Rte. 163), running from Sorrento to Salerno, are racetrack worthy. This feat of engineering and construction takes you twisting and turning high above the spectacular Mediterranean coastline, so close to the edge that you might get a few twinges of vertigo. Don’t think about getting on a tour bus here; adventure junkies will want to be in control here, experiencing the tight turns, even if it takes a white-knuckled grip. (It does, however, help to have a trusted copilot with you, so you can take an occasional break and soak in the dramatic scenery along the way.)
Starting in Sorrento, the Amalfi Drive takes you up to Sant’Agata Sui Due Golfi along the Sorrentine peninsula, offering views of the Bay of Naples and the Bay of Salerno. As you follow along pavement that clings to the rock face, with few roadside railings to give any illusion of safety, you’ll gasp at the striking azure water and sandy alcoves far below, before being wowed by the quaint pastel-hued villages cascading down steep mountainsides. When you arrive in Positano, stop over for a night or consider returning after you see more of the coast. The cafes and boutiques are admittedly overpriced here, but this village is the quintessential Amalfi Coast of postcard fame. Exploring the town by foot is a worthy side trip. You’ll pass olive and lemon groves as you hike upward, past donkeys and perhaps a pick-up soccer game. Make sure to enjoy a leisurely lunch at the unnamed restaurant in the hamlet of Nocelle.
From Positano, it’s about a 30-minute drive to Amalfi, a historically important trading port, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a chic beach resort area. Check out the breathtaking Duamo di San’t Andrea, and climb the steps to see its bronze door that was cast during the 11th century. It’s also