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By Root 801 0

animals are moved in the morning from their corral in the outskirts of town, through the streets to the bullring for almost certain death in the afternoon. Barriers are erected and six steers (castrated males) join the six aggressive (in-tact) bulls as they run in a herd through the streets in the early morning, taking approximately 4 minutes to cover the half-mile. Generally the bulls ignore the crowds and make straight for the stadium. However, if one becomes separated from the rest, all hell breaks loose. It becomes disorientated and attacks anything that moves, often running the wrong way and tossing spectators in the air. Hundreds of people are injured every year and there are 15 recorded deaths since records began in 1924.

The festival has been running since 1591 and is not unusual in the sense that bull running (known as encierro to the locals) takes place all over Spain, parts of Southern France, and Latin America. Pamplona is, however, the most prestigious, made famous by Hemingway and beamed across the world for its dramatic photos and near-death experiences. It is no wonder that the casualty list every year has a strong international flavor. It’s nearly impossible to get a hotel room during the festival, so hundreds sleep in the park and streets during the day. They party all night and spill out onto the streets in the early morning for the daily run at 8am. Anybody can participate but you must register before 7:30am. Viewers arrive as early as 6am to get a good spot. Utter drunkenness is prohibited and indeed there is nothing more sobering than seeing a raging tank of meat and horn bearing down on top of you. Runners are also not allowed to provoke the animals, nor run the wrong way.

The cruel nature of bullfighting has meant the running of the bulls is controversial. The animal rights organization PETA conducts a Running of the Nudes through the streets the week preceding the festival in a light-hearted protest at the event. Yet there is no doubting Pamplona’s popularity and the fear factor that attracts thousands for this carnival of carnage. —CO’M

www.sanfermin.com.

When to Go: July 6–July 14.

Bilbao (169km/104 miles).

$$ AH San Fermin Suites, Avda. Villava 90 ( 34/948/136-000;www.ahsanfermin.com). $$ Hotel Europa, Espoz y Mina 11 ( 34/948/221-800;www.hreuropa.com).

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High-Rolling in Las Vegas

Playing with the Big Boys

Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.

A hush falls across the elegant room as you slowly saunter across the Oriental carpet over to your favorite dealer. Beneath the glitter of crystal chandeliers, you slide into a comfortable leather chair that affords you a view of the other players. There’s the Count, gambling away the last of his family’s ancient fortune, next to the Argentine cattle baron. The waitress takes your order—top shelf liquor, of course—and you place your bet: $500 on the red. Welcome to the world of high-stakes gambling, far removed from the bling and the noise of the crowded casino floor, where fortunes are made and lost with the roll of the dice.

For obvious reasons, this sort of gambling is not for everyone. At many tables, the minimum bet starts at $100, and on big weekends—when there’s a heavyweight fight in town, for example—the minimums can exceed $500. Don’t expect to just stroll in wearing your flip-flops and board shorts. Dress codes for ladies and gentlemen are strictly enforced, and the dealers and waitstaff wear tuxedos and elegant dresses—this isn’t Hooters, after all. Gamblers who are looking for a crazy night out with buckets of free drinks might also be disappointed, because the atmosphere in these rooms is as refined as the decor, and loud, obnoxious guests who have been “over-served” will be escorted out.

Most of the larger, more established casinos have high-limit rooms with amenities like free hors d’oeuvres and cocktails, premium audio and video installations, and private restrooms. Wynn Las Vegas has an attractive outdoor balcony overlooking their swimming pool, Caesars Palace enjoys a reputation for top-notch service, and the MGM Mansion is known