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provide shark-feeding dives off Grand Bahama Island. After a safety briefing, certified divers are taken on a 30- to 40-minute boat ride to Shark Alley. Once in the water, divers drop to approximately 12m (40 ft.) and kneel on the bottom with their backs to an old recompression chamber. One or two dive masters swim with hand spears to keep watch over the area. As if on cue, larger fish start to arrive and are followed by the sharks. The sharks in this area are almost all Caribbean reef sharks, but occasionally a nurse shark shows up. While not usually aggressive, 2.4 to 3m (8–9 ft.) sharks can be quite intimidating, especially because they’re here for a meal.

One of the dive operators serves as the feeder. Dressed in a chain mail suit, he takes pieces of fish from a container, holds them out, and lets a shark grab the food from his hand. Divers are close enough to the feeding sharks to see the membrane over the sharks’ eyes close as they nab the fish. Frequently, the sharks swim right over the heads of the kneeling divers (remember to keep you hands down!). During the dive, the feeder will “trance” one of the sharks, by putting a chain mailed hand over the shark’s nose. The shark behaves as though it’s been anesthetized or hypnotized and can be brought over to the kneeling divers to be touched. The entire experience, which needless to say is a fantastic photo opportunity, lasts approximately 30 minutes.

These two dive operators and several others also provide regular scuba dives around Grand Bahama to such sites as Theo’s wreck and to underwater caves and tunnels that surround the island. It’s possible to encounter sharks on any of the open water dives.

For those looking for shark-less encounters, Grand Bahama Island is a tourist center with shopping, gambling, beaches, and numerous leisure activities. Freeport/Lucaya has more hustle and bustle than the more laid-back beach locations outside of town. —LF

The Islands of the Bahamas (www.bahamas.com/grand-bahama-island/grand-bahama-island).

Tours: UNEXSO ( 800/992-3483;www.unexso.com). Xanadu Undersea Adventures ( 242/352-3811;www.xanadudive.com).

When to Go: High season is Dec–May.

Freeport.

$$$ Island Seas Resort, William’s Town, Freeport ( 800/801-6884 or 242/373-1271; www.islandseas.com). $ Royal Palm Resort & Suites, E. Mall at Settlers’ Way, Freeport ( 888/790-5264 or 242/352-5759; www.royalpalmsuites.com).

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Diving with Giant Squid

Facing the Red Demon

Baja, Mexico

Anti-squid armor on? Check! Blue-water diving tether properly attached? Check! It’s time to meet the Red Demon squid of Mexico. You’ve spent several hours in “Squid School,” training for your first encounter with the giant Humboldt squid, but you’re still a bit nervous. You know these creatures grow up to 1.5m (5 ft.) long, weigh 32kg (70 lb.) or much more, have big suckers on their tentacles for grabbing their prey, and a parrot beak for ripping flesh. There’s always the chance that a squid could wrap a tentacle around your leg and try to pull you downward. Fortunately, you’re only going down to a maximum depth of 12m (40 ft.) and you’re tethered to your boat at the surface, so you can be quickly pulled up should one of gangly beasts grab on.

These super predators travel in packs called shoals that range from tens to hundreds. They’ve come from depths around 150m (500 ft.) up toward the surface to feed. The pangas (local squid fisherman) have put bait in the water to attract these predators.

You’re escorted down to a 12m (40-ft.) depth in the Sea of Cortez by one of the expert divers; there you start to watch the dance. Because of the underwater bioluminescence, colors flash as the giant squid swirl around. You see red, yellow, white, and even black. Watch the squid stalk prey, feed, and interact with each other—it’s like nothing you’ve ever seen before. If you feel relaxed enough, now’s the time to start shooting underwater photos or filming.

Shark Diver has teamed with legendary giant squid expert Scott Cassel and C Wolf Expeditions, who have studied, documented, and dived with giant