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Perhaps the most dramatic experience in Lofoten is a tour over turbulent waters—the “Lofoten Maelstrom” (called the Moskestraumen by local fishermen), one of the world’s strongest tidal currents in open waters. The treacherous strait separating Moskenesøy from the offshore island of Vaerøy to the south has been called “the world’s most dangerous waters.” Take a ride on the Maelstrom—or just go fishing—with Moskstraumen Adventure ( 47/977-56-021; www.lofoten-info.no/moskstraumen-adventure) in the town of Å.

Dramatic scenery is not the region’s only natural draw. Here, in northern Norway, the skies give the mountains and the sea a run for their money. The aurora borealis (northern lights) paint the evening skies from September to April, and in the summer the Lofotens become the light-filled Land of the Midnight Sun. —AF

www.lofoten-info.no or www.visitnorway.com.

Bodø to Svolvær.

From Skutvik, take the 2-hour ferry to Svolvær. Ferry information and reservations: Lofotens og Vesterålens Dampskibsselskab A/S (also known as DDF; 94-89-73-34 or 81-03-00-00; www.ovds.no).

$$$ Anker Brygge, Lamholmen, Svolvær ( 76-06-64-80;www.anker-brygge.no). $$ Nusfjord Rorbu, Flakstadoy ( 76-09-30-20;http://nusfjord.no).

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Gorilla Safaris

I Spy an Endangered Animal

Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

Seeing mountain gorillas in the wild isn’t easy, which is exactly what makes it so exciting. Unfortunately, only about 700 of these magnificent creatures still live in their natural environment—in the Virunga range of volcanic mountains on the borders of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), Rwanda, and Uganda, and in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Uganda. In other words, the chance to see one is slim.

Seeing gorillas in the wild is the thrill of a lifetime.

But a large number of endangered mountain gorillas reside in northwest Rwanda, often called the land of a thousand hills, and most are found in the Volcanoes National Park. In recent years, the country’s tourism office (www.rwandatourism.com) has made great strides toward protecting its population of apes, but the animals remain at risk from poaching, habitat destruction, and diseases transmitted by humans. While gorilla safaris generate the greatest amount of revenue for Rwanda’s tourism industry, the country’s priority is to maintain responsible travel and conservation efforts. The steep mountainous terrain and dense rainforest acts as somewhat of a deterrent for less intrepid or less active travelers. For others, the country’s location near the DRC, where insurgent groups are still involved in violent conflicts, makes it undesirable. (Although there were no travel restrictions on Rwanda at the time of this writing, it is advisable to check U.S. State Department warnings before booking a trip.) To further limit visitors, permit fees remain expensive at $250 and no more than 56 tourists are allowed to enter the park each day. These obstacles make a gorilla safari one of the world’s most difficult, exclusive, and exhilarating wildlife experiences.

For those who do journey to Rwanda, the Virunga volcanoes—Karisimbi, Bisoke, Sabyniyo, Gahinga, and Muhabura—make a striking backdrop as you travel into the Volcanoes National Park. Conservationist Dian Fossey, who lived in this area for 18 years studying and protecting gorillas, described the Virungas like this: “In the heart of Central Africa, so high up that you shiver more than you sweat, are great, old volcanoes towering up almost 4,500m (15,000 ft.), and nearly covered with rich, green rainforest.” To learn more about Fossey, her work with mountain gorillas, and how you can help protect the endangered species, visit www.gorillafund.org.

Rwanda’s enthralling, lush green landscape is a good distraction during the beginning of what can be an arduous trek. Be prepared to hike for several hours, climbing at altitudes between 2,400 and 3,000m (8,000—10,000 ft.), in wet and muddy conditions, before glimpsing