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96

Night Kayaking in Mosquito Bay

Droplets of Water Sparkle Like Diamonds

Vieques, Puerto Rico, U.S.A.

It was a cloudy, moonless night. In the dark water below streaks of light flashed and disappeared. As our kayak glided slowly along a blue-green eerie glow surrounded us. We were at Mosquito Bay, on the south coast of Vieques, Puerto Rico, one of the most bioluminescent bodies of water in the world.

Most scuba divers who have gone night diving have witnessed bioluminescence. You turn off your lamps, wave an arm, and see a flashing of light. Mosquito Bay takes this to the extreme limits and the effects are gorgeous. Bioluminescence is caused by millions of microscopic, harmless creatures called dinoflagelates, which emit a small flash of light (think microscopic lightening bug) when disturbed. The trail of light under our boat was the result of a fish that swam by—not to mention all the commotion our kayak set off as it coasted through the water. When I lifted my paddle out of the waves, the droplets of water sparkled like tiny diamonds with light passing through them. Raindrops, too, can create this magical effect, but perhaps the most fun of all is swimming in the warm bay and having the water all around you glow as you move. This is an adventure kids will enjoy as much as adults. It’s an experience they’ll never forget.

A palm-lined white sand beach in Vieques.

The island of Vieques, which was once a pirate haven, is approximately 8 miles (13km) off the shore of Puerto Rico’s mainland. After locals got the U.S. Navy to relinquish the 70% of the island that it was using as a military testing ground, tourists slowly started to find Vieques and its unique Mosquito Bay. Many visitors claim the best thing to do on the island is nothing, but with the water beckoning, it’s hard to stay still for long. On dry land, a visit to the restored El Fortin Condo de Mirasol, the old Spanish fort built in the 1840s that is now a museum, is worthwhile. El Faro Punta Mulas, a restored lighthouse with a small museum, provides a great view of the area. Many tourists rent four-wheel drive vehicles and head to remote beaches. Blue Beach is excellent for snorkeling. If you need the casinos and shopping, you can always take the ferry to the mainland. —LF

Vieques Island (www.viequestravelguide.com; www.enchanted-isle.com).

Tour: Abe’s Snorkeling and Bio Bay Tours ( 787/741-2134;www.abessnorkeling.com).

When to Go: Nov–Dec.

Isla de Vieques Airport or San Juan Airport.

Isabel Segunda (11⁄4 hr. from Fajardo, P.R.).

$$ The Crow’s Nest, Rte. 201, Barrio Florida ( 877/CROWS-NEST [276-9763] or 787/741-0033; www.crowsnestvieques.com). $$ Trade Winds Guesthouse, Calle Flamboyan 107, Esperanza ( 787/741-8666;www.enchanted-isle.com/tradewinds). $$$ W Retreat and Spa, S. R. 200 ( 787/741-4100;www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels).

97

On the Water in Iceland

Paddling in Serene Fjords

Iceland

Paddling in the Hvalfjorour fjord, in western Iceland, you’re surrounded by mountains that rise more than 960m (3,200 ft.) above the sea. The water is quiet and the scenery dramatic along the coastline. Sneaking in a few hours of sea kayaking, within an easy drive (approximately 24km/15 miles) from Reykjavik, will make your trip to Iceland all the more memorable. Getting out of the city and into the throes of nature is a sure fire way to excite the explorer in you.

Arctic Adventures, who run kayaking expeditions, also run an adventurous 5-day Fire Island Exploration trip throughout the summer, which includes river rafting, sea kayaking, snorkeling in the Silfra Fissure, as well as horseback riding, hiking, and visits to the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. A trip with them is anything but boring.

If you’re interested in exploring Iceland from the water but don’t want to do all the work yourself, call a yacht home base. Check into Borea Adventures’ trip on the 18m (60-ft.) Aurora, which travels to the remote fjords and coves of the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve (www.ust.is) in the West Fjords of northwest Iceland,