500 Adrenaline Adventures (Frommer's) - Lois Friedland [56]
Want more of an adrenaline rush? Book a 10-minute helicopter ride over the cascades with Niagara Helicopters ( 905/357-5672;www.niagarahelicopters.com) or Rainbow Air ( 716/284-2800;www.rainbowairinc.com), or crash through the white waters of the Niagara gorge with Whirlpool Jet Boat Tours (Apr–Oct; 888/438-4444 in the U.S., or 905/468-4800 in Canada; www.whirlpooljet.com). This being a major tourist destination, there’s a ton of other attractions around, from historic old forts and botanical gardens to aquariums and amusement parks. But overdeveloped as it may be, the spectacular Falls are still there. —HH
U.S. ( 877/FALLSUS [325-5787] or 716/282-8992; www.niagara-usa.com). Canada ( 800/563-2557;www.niagarafallstourism.com).
When to Go: May–Oct.
Buffalo Niagara International Airport, 34km (21 miles).
$$ Courtyard by Marriott, 5950 Victoria Ave., Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada ( 800/771-1123 or 905/358-3083; www.nfcourtyard.com). $$$ Red Coach Inn, 2 Buffalo Ave., Niagara Falls, NY, USA ( 866/719-2070 or 716/282-1459; www.redcoach.com).
108
Kayaking in the Port Wine Region
The Sweetest Sort of Paddling
Porto to Pocinho, Portugal
There are relatively few regions in Europe that remain off the beaten path, but northern Portugal is one of them. Full of old-world charm, this part of the country is home to rolling hills, picturesque medieval towns, romantic Baroque-style quintas (farm estates), several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, hearty local cooking, and plenty of wine.
The Douro River, often known as the “River of Gold,” curves through the region, traversing deep canyons blanketed with grapevines. This river valley has been producing authentic port—the famous dessert wine fortified by adding grape brandy—for more than 2,000 years. Its microclimate of brutally hot, dry summers and extremely cold winters creates intensely flavorful grapes. In the past, flat-bottomed boats called barcos rabelos would carry the wine from vineyards along the Douro River to storage cellars in Porto on the Atlantic coast. Today, tanker trucks are used instead, but you can still follow the boats’ ancient river route in a modern kayak.
Begin in Porto, Portugal’s second-largest city, famous for the eponymous beverage and a historic downtown with spectacular architectural sites. After exploring the city for a day, take the train to Pocinho, and settle in for a night at a local farm to get a real taste of the area. A traditional feast and local wines will fortify you for the next several days of kayaking. The next morning, drive a bit farther inland to the river’s mouth. Once you start paddling through the Douro’s upper gorge, you’ll be overwhelmed by the striking views of mountain ranges, bountiful olive and almond orchards, terraced grapevines, and the lush countryside. When you’re ready to rest your tired arms, stop at the quaint village of Nossa Senhora da Ribeira.
Refreshed, you can take off the next morning to kayak past more vineyards. You might stop to chat with workers harvesting grapes or see the wine being prepared for transport. On the following day, paddle through the dramatic Valeira Gorge, once the river’s scariest passageway. Still a narrow, granite gorge, it’s more accessible today because the accompanying rapids were dynamited in the 18th century and a dam was built. Making your way along the water, you’ll see countless birds, particularly kingfishers, before stopping for lunch in the village of Tua.
Kayakers take a break on the rocks in Portugal’s port wine region.
As you journey down the river for another couple of days, you might begin to think you’ve traveled back in time.