500 Adrenaline Adventures (Frommer's) - Lois Friedland [69]
From Cayo Coco, it’s about an hour and a half drive southeast to Jucaro, the main port in Jardines de la Reina, or Gardens of the Queen. This is the departure point for most multi-day fishing trips in Jardins de la Reina. The 160km-long (100-mile) chain of uninhabited cayes (keys) is protected by the third-longest barrier reef in the world. In Jucaro, you can either board a “live-aboard” yacht (Halcon, La Reina, or Caballones) or a transport boat to take you to La Tortuga, the double-decker floating houseboat hotel that’s permanently secured in a small protected channel about 3 hours from Jucaro. Whichever you choose, you’ll spend your days at sea—with a small group of other anglers and without cellphone or e-mail access—just trying to reel in some big ’ol bonefish, tarpon, and permit. The saltwater fly-fishing grand slam would be to catch all three on the same day, but that’s nearly impossible. Permits are particularly difficult to get a hold of; they’re elusive, skittish, and smart. There are plenty of other fish here too, including snapper, a variety of jacks, and grouper.
Trying to wrestle any 30-pound fish out of the water is no small feat, and any experienced angler knows it. As you maneuver your fishing rod, trying to hold on, the thrill of the fight—and eventually the catch—pulses through your whole body. As Hemingway once said during a 1965 interview in The Atlantic Monthly, “It’s wonderful to get out on the water. It’s the last free place there is, the sea.” —JS
Cuba Tourist Board in Canada, 1200 Bay St., Ste. 305, Toronto ( 866/404-2822;www.gocuba.ca). Cuban Portal of Tourism (www.cubatravel.cu).
Tour: Avalon Cuban Fishing Centers ( 011/39-335-814-9111;www.cubanfishingcenters.com).
When to Go: Oct–Aug.
Aeropuerto Internacional Jardines del Rey.
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Sportfishing off Cabo
Gone Fishin’
Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
Cabo San Lucas is sometimes called “the town that marlin built,” and it comes by that reputation honestly. Landing a marlin that’s well over 100 pounds or larger is a regular occurrence here, and with yellowfin tuna, wahoo, dorado, yellowtail, and sailfish in plentiful supply, there’s no wonder this once-sleepy town on the southern tip of Baja California has been drawing anglers from around the world for decades. But if there’s one prized catch that keeps them coming back, it’s the billfish, those stunning beautiful sailfish, swordfish, and marlins that put up a titanic fight at the end of a line, even to the point of occasionally injuring the fisherman lucky enough to land one. Wrestling one of these beasts of the sea is a jolt of an experience—the kind from which legends are born.
Cabo San Lucas and its sister resort town, San Jose del Cabo, are easily reached from Los Cabos International Airport. From either town, or just about anywhere on the tip of Baja, it’s a simple affair to arrange a fishing trip. Strolling onto a marina with that “I want to fish” look in your eyes will net you several options for taking a trip out on a panga, the small, speedy boats that are a favorite with the local pescaderos (fishermen). Those who prefer a more cushy experience should make reservations with one of the larger cruisers that offer an all-inclusive experience combining lunch, drinks, fishing license, beer, bait, gratuity to the crew and the filleting and freezing of your catch.
The tip of Baja isn’t all about fishing, either. When the fish aren’t biting, ATV trips out of town, glass-bottom boat cruises, horseback riding, snorkeling, scuba diving, and surfing—as well as plentiful golf and tennis opportunities—can help anglers pass the time.
Marlin and their fellow billfish are fast, aggressive, powerful predators that make for a fantastic man-vs.-nature struggle. They’re also increasingly in danger of being overfished, so most reputable captains and pescaderos insist on catch-and-release fishing, to ensure that stocks of these magnificent creatures remain ample for generations, and