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but knew we were not completely alone. At the suggestion of a local, we took one of the back trails leading up to Bryce Canyon’s horseshoe-shaped amphitheaters populated by the fantastically shaped hoodoo spires. Walking through the ponderosas and fir pines was easy at first, but breathing became harder as the trail got steeper and we found ourselves walking among the rocks. Before us rose sheer canyon walls with tints stretching from pale pink and red to orange and white. We finally understood why this small national park in southwestern Utah is such a popular hiking area. The raw and vivid landscape is awe-inspiring. To spend time and hike here is to experience nature at its mysterious best.

Although called Bryce Canyon, the park isn’t a canyon. It holds more than a dozen amphitheaters, and every one is carved at least 1,000 feet (300m) into the limestone of the Colorado Plateau, formed millions of years ago. The chromatic walls and the fantastical spires, called hoodoos, were formed both by constant freezing and thawing, and the rain wearing away the limestone in the Claron Formation, which was created 60 million years ago by sedimentary deposits in a large prehistoric lake. The pink limestone, which has both iron and manganese oxide, creates the chromatic rock.

When we linked to the more popular Navajo Loop and the Queens Garden trails, the sense of isolation disappeared. Walking on well-worn paths that took us through a maze of weird and fragile-looking hoodoos, we started meeting chattering tourists who began their walks at Sunrise Point.

Bryce Canyon National Park is famous for its dramatic rock formations.

Bryce Canyon has many marked hiking trails—some easy, some moderate, and some strenuous. In addition to the trails, hikers can also venture into the park’s backcountry, considered a primitive area, with the appropriate permit. If you’re after views but don’t want a strenuous hike, try the easier portion of the Rim Trail between Sunrise and Sunset points, which provides minimal elevation changes but wonderful views of the main amphitheater. Swamp Canyon, rated as a moderate hike, takes you past hoodoos to an overlook with views into amphitheaters, from which you can descend and connect with other trails. One of the more strenuous routes, the Fairyland Loop Trail, takes you among amazing hoodoos, delivers spectacular views from the rim, and takes you into amphitheaters.

If you head into the more primitive areas, you’ll walk among high meadows and forests of pines and see interesting geological sites. Backcountry permits are required for all overnight hikes and must be obtained in person at the Visitor Center at least 1 hour before closing. In-person reservations may be made up to 48 hours in advance.

Park rangers suggest wearing hiking boots with good lug traction and ankle support. Also carry plenty of water (at least a quart per 2–3 hr. of hiking per person). Keep in mind the park tops out more than 9,000 feet (2,700m) above sea level. You’re changing elevations when walking at the bottom of the amphitheaters, so watch out for altitude sickness.

Heading back down to the park entrance, we again descended into a quiet zone, turning around occasionally for a last glimpse of the amphitheaters. At the end of the trail, we met up with a group of horseback riders who were unsaddling their mounts and raving about the experience of riding among the hoodoos. We had similar feelings about walking among the 60-million-year-old spires.

Zion National Park (www.nps.gov/zion) and other colorful Utah parks such as Cedar Breaks National Monument (www.nps.gov/cebr) and Pipe Spring National Monument (www.nps.gov/pisp) are within easy driving distance. —LF

Bryce Canyon National Park ( 435/834-5322;www.nps.gov/brca).

When to Go: Spring, summer, and fall.

Bryce Canyon Airport.

$$ Bryce Canyon Lodge, 1 Bryce Canyon Lodge ( 435/834-5361;www.brycecanyonlodge.com). $ Bryce Country Cabins, 320 N. Utah 12 ( 888/679-8643 or 435-679-8643; www.brycecountrycabins.com).

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