A Cook's Tour_ In Search of the Perfect Meal - Anthony Bourdain [135]
I don’t know what happened. With my shotgun broken over my arm – so as not to shoot any of the TV crew or gamekeepers should I stumble into a pothole on the rough terrain – and the safety on, I spied a rabbit racing for cover about sixty to eighty feet in front of me. I quickly had to snap the gun closed, raise it, click off the safety, aim, and then fire – all this at a speedy, barely visible little critter that was running and leaping across his own turf. Bam! Very little kick. To my shock and no small amount of dismay, I’d blown the spine out of something that had once looked very much like Bugs.
‘Well shot, sir,’ said an assistant gamekeeper, retrieving the limp, still-warm corpse. Holding my prey, I couldn’t resist the need to pet it, so cuddly and adorable; my voice actually cracked a little when I talked to the camera.
After each shot, I’d break my smoking weapon and an assistant would remove the shell and replace it. I saw a movement to my left, swung the barrel around, rapping Chris’s camera in the process, and bagged another one tearing along a wall a long ways off. Jesus! I was a murder machine! Now I had two sweet-faced little bunny wabbits on my conscience . . . This was not right. But, God help me, I was having fun. Another few hours and I’d be signing up for grouse season.
Back at the lodge, Ruth prepared an amazing packed lunch of rabbit and venison stew, nettle soup, slices of air-dried beef, Scottish cheeses, and homemade breads. Then all of us, Chef Ruth, Gloria, the mad and wonderful Glaswegian housekeeper, an assistant gamekeeper, and the crew headed out over the moors to a fishing shack by the edge of a stream. Ruth set up a buffet on a picnic table inside and we helped ourselves, then sat down on the porch and devoured the fruits of the not-so-great white hunter’s toil.
It was sensational. Sitting there watching cattle graze on a hillside across the water, listening to Gloria tell Glaswegian jokes, drinking red wine and watching the tall grass and heather move in the wind, I could hardly imagine a better setting for an afternoon meal. I did, however, begin to fear for my own safety. When this stuff hit the airwaves, when the PETA folks got a load of this, I could be looking at serious trouble. I don’t want any vegan terrorists throwing blood on me – particularly not if I’m wearing an expensive jacket. Hopefully, my potential adversaries don’t get enough animal protein to pose any real threat to my health or wardrobe. But I can’t be sure, can I? Maybe I should buy a Taser.
Very, Very Strong
It’s back to my Saigon routine: Mornings at the market, 555 cigarettes and 333 beer. I’m holed up at the Continental (where I should have stayed all along), just across the street from Givral’s pastry shop and the old Théâtre Municipal. Faded photographs of the hotel hang in frames on the walls surrounding the Orchid Garden bar in the courtyard. They date back to the 1880s, depicting straw-hatted French generals, white-suited colonists, satraps, and rickshaws. A much larger, later photograph, dated 1975, shows NVA soldiers resting out in front of the hotel. Across the square is the Caravelle, where journalists,