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Recipes and Recollections

Jean Anderson

For the Southerners,

past and present,

who have enriched my life

Contents

Acknowledgments

Foreword by Sara Moulton

Introduction

How to Use This Book

Appetizers and Snacks

Soups, Muddles, and Chowders

Main Dishes: Meat, Fish, Fowl, and More

Sides and Salads

Breads

Desserts and Confections

Pickles and Preserves

The Language of Southern Food

Sources

Bibliography

Searchable Terms

About the Author

Other Books by Jean Anderson

Copyright

About the Publisher

Acknowledgments

I should like to thank, first and foremost, my good friend and colleague Joanne Lamb Hayes not only for telling me about the foods of her Maryland childhood but also for lending a hand with the recipe testing and development. Few food people are more professional, more creative, or more dedicated.

In addition, I’d like to thank my two nieces, Linda and Kim Anderson, for sharing recipes from the “southern side of their family.” My gratitude, too, to Betsy Thomas and Georgia Downard, who double-checked a number of the recipes; also to Debbie Moose and Clyde Satterwhite, who assisted with sidebar research.

Down the years as I’ve traveled the South on article assignment, friends, acquaintances, colleagues—even strangers—have taught me about the dishes popular in their particular corners of the South and served them forth with hearty helpings of history plus snippets of gossip, legend, and lore. Many of them have graciously put treasured family recipes into my hands, many of them printed here for the first time.

I am indebted to one and all: Bea Armstrong; Anne Lewis Anderson; Janet L. Appel, Director, Shirley Plantation; Dorothy Bailey; Marcelle Bienvenue; Donna Brazile; Jennifer S. Broadwater, Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill, Kentucky; Rose Ellwood Bryan; Mrs. Pegram A. Bryant; Ruth Current; Chuck Dedman, Beaumont Inn, Harrodsburg, Kentucky; “Miz Nannie Grace” Dishman; Nancy Blackard Dobbins; Judith London Evans; Damon Lee Fowler; Mrs. Franklin (I wish I could remember the first name of this early Raleigh neighbor who taught me so much).

Deepest thanks, too, to Dr. and Mrs. William C. Friday; Jean Todd Freeman; Laura Frost; Pauline Gordon; “Miss Tootie” Guirard; Mr. and Mrs. James G. Harrison; Lisa Ruffin Harrison, Evelynton Plantation; Mr. and Mrs. Malcolm Jamieson, Berkeley Plantation; Sally Belk King; Elizabeth C. Kremer; Jane Kronsberg; Lorna Langley; Linn Lesesne; Meri Major, Belle Air Plantation; Betsy Marsh; Eleanor Haywood Mason; Garnet McCollum; Dr. and Mrs. Allen W. Mead; Amy Moore; Helen Moore; Mrs. Carey Mumford, Sr.; Nancy Ijames Myers; Virginia Mumford Nance; Moreton Neal; Madeline Nevill; Chan Patterson; Nancy Mumford Pencsak; David Perry; Fleming Pfann; Annie Pool; “Miz Suzie” Rankin; Maria Harrison Reuge; Rick Robinson; Tom Robinson; Mary Frances Schinhan; Mary Sheppard; Mary Seymour; Florence Gray Soltys; Elizabeth Hedgecock Sparks; Kim Sunée; Pauline Thompson; Payne Tyler, Sherwood Forest Plantation, Virginia; Janet Trent; Kathy Underhill; Jeanne Appleton Voltz; Cile Freeman Waite; Lillian Waldron; Lois Watkins; Virginia Wilson; Lenora Yates; and not least, those gifted North Carolina Home Demonstration Club cooks from Manteo to Murphy.

Further, I’d like to thank these singular southern chefs for ongoing inspiration: Ben and Karen Barker of Magnolia Grill, Durham, North Carolina, Robert Carter, Peninsula Grill, Charleston; Mildred Council, Mama Dip’s Country Kitchen, Chapel Hill; Marcel Desaulniers, The Trellis, Williamsburg, Virginia; John Fleer, Blackberry Farm, Walland, Tennessee; Scott Howell, Nana’s and Q Shack, Durham, North Carolina; Patrick O’Connell, The Inn at Little Washington, Washington, Virginia; Louis Osteen, Louis’s at Pawley’s, Pawley’s Island, South Carolina; Paul Prudhomme, K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen, New Orleans; Walter Royal, Angus Barn, Raleigh; Bill Smith, Crook’s Corner, Chapel Hill; Brian Stapleton, The Carolina Inn, Chapel