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5. Heat a well-seasoned large iron skillet over moderately high heat for 1½ to 2 minutes or until very hot. Lift six of the large shrimp from the marinade, letting the excess drain off. Add to the skillet and “bronze” by sautéing 1 to 1½ minutes on each side or just until done; transfer to a large heated plate. Bronze the remaining shrimp in batches the same way and add to the plate.

6. When ready to serve, spoon ¾ cup of the Creole Sauce–shrimp mixture around the hillock of rice on each dinner plate, arrange six of the bronzed shrimp artfully on top, then garnish with a scattering of the sliced scallions.

CREOLE SAUCE

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

This recipe is integral to the Bronzed Shrimp Creole, which precedes, and should be made a day ahead of time. It’s also good ladled over broiled fish, shellfish, or chicken. You can even use it to braise pork chops. Tip: Wear rubber gloves when handling the jalapeño pepper.

4 slices lean, smoky bacon, cut crosswise into strips ½ inch wide

1 medium yellow onion, finely diced

1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely diced

½ small red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely diced

3 medium celery ribs, finely diced

2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ pickled jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped

One 28-ounce can tomatoes in purée

1¼ cups tomato juice

2 tablespoons sugar

½ chicken bouillon cube

1 teaspoon dried minced garlic

½ teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

¼ teaspoon ground hot red pepper (cayenne), or to taste

5 tablespoons butter

1. Cook the bacon in a large, heavy nonreactive saucepan over moderate heat, stirring often, for about 10 minutes or until crisp.

2. Add the onion, green and red bell peppers, celery, chopped garlic, and jalapeño; reduce the heat to moderately low and cook, stirring often, for 8 to 10 minutes or until the vegetables are limp. Add all remaining ingredients except the butter, adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently, cover, and simmer for 40 to 45 minutes or until the sauce is thick and the flavors have mellowed.

3. Add the butter and when it melts, stir well to combine. Taste for salt and cayenne and adjust as needed. The sauce is now ready to use.

CHARLESTON SHRIMP PIE

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

The first time I stayed at the elegantly rebuilt and furnished Mills House in Charleston some thirty years ago, I spied this dish on the breakfast buffet, spooned up a good portion, then went back for seconds. Now, whenever I visit Charleston, I look for shrimp pie—a casserole despite its name. Four versions of it appear in Blanche S. Rhett’s Two Hundred Years of Charleston Cooking (1930), some of them gussied up with bell pepper and tomatoes, others heavily laced with wine. Although Mrs. Rhett says that shrimp pie is a Charleston Sunday supper favorite, it’s the perfect entrée for a casual brunch, lunch, or supper any day of the week. The recipe here is one that I’ve developed over the years, fine-tuning after each subsequent visit to Charleston.

2 tablespoons butter

4 medium scallions, trimmed and coarsely chopped (include some green tops)

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon ground hot red pepper (cayenne)

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

2½ cups moderately coarse soft white bread crumbs (5 slices firm-textured bread)

1¾ cups half-and-half

2 large eggs, beaten until frothy with ½ teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons dry sherry

1 pound shelled and deveined cooked shrimp, coarsely chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Butter a 6-cup casserole well and set aside.

2. Melt the butter in a small, heavy skillet over moderate heat. Add the scallions, nutmeg, and both peppers, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes or until limp and golden. Set off the heat and cool to room temperature.

3. Meanwhile, soak the bread crumbs in the cream in a large mixing bowl for 15 minutes, then, using a large wooden spoon, beat hard