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7. Arrange the dominos in rows in the baking dish, standing them on end and at an angle, domino-style—the rows will fit snugly in the pan. Drizzle the melted butter evenly over all, sprinkle with the Parmesan, then the Cheddar, and finally the paprika.

8. Bake uncovered on the middle oven shelf for 40 to 45 minutes or until bubbling and touched with brown. Serve at once.

Only a Southerner knows that grits is singular.

—ANONYMOUS

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TIME LINE: the people and events that shaped Southern Cuisine

1919

Sid Weaver and George Ridenhour serve barbecue from a tent they’ve pitched across from the county courthouse in Lexington, North Carolina; soon Jess Swicegood pitches a barbecue tent of his own. Thus begins the tradition of “Lexington” or Western North Carolina barbecue. It differs from East Carolina’s vinegary ’cue in two ways: Only pork shoulder is used and the sauce is redder and sweeter thanks to the addition of a little ketchup and sometimes a bit of sugar as well. Recipes, needless to add, remain deeply secret.

Atlanta banker Ernest Woodruff assembles a consortium of New York bankers and, in what would now be called a leveraged buyout, takes over the Coca-Cola Company. The amount paid to former owner Asa G. Candler: $25 million.

1920

Chicken farmer Arthur Perdue founds Perdue Farms in Salisbury, Maryland. That same year his only son, Frank, is born.

1921

When the boll weevil decimates their cotton crops, Georgia farmers begin planting peanuts. They soon become a major crop and remain so.

After disease attacks Georgia peaches, the U.S. Department of Agriculture sets up the Peach Research Station at Fort Valley, Georgia.

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CREAMY GRITS WITH TASSO

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

This is my adaptation of a delightful side dish dreamed up by John Fleer, the gifted chef at the Inn at Blackberry Farm in the Tennessee foothills. As a matter of fact, Fleer characterizes his elegant Appalachian cooking as “Foothills Cuisine.” I featured him in an article I wrote some years ago for Gourmet and among Fleer’s recipes that accompanied the article was a somewhat different version of these grits. Note: This recipe calls for two distinctly southern specialties: stone-ground grits and tasso (richly spiced, cold-smoked, cured, pickled pork or beef). Neither is widely available but both can be ordered online (see Sources, backmatter).

1 tablespoon butter

4 medium scallions, trimmed and finely chopped (include some green tops)

1½ cups chicken broth

½ cup stone-ground grits, preferably white (see Note above)

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

¼ teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

½ cup water (about)

2 ounces tasso, cut into ¼-inch dice (see Note above)

¼ cup coarsely chopped red bell pepper

¼ cup coarsely chopped green bell pepper

2 tablespoons light cream or half-and-half

1. Melt the butter in a large, heavy saucepan over moderate heat, add the scallions, and cook, stirring often, for 3 to 5 minutes or until limp. Add the broth and bring to a boil.

2. Whisking constantly, add the grits, then the salt and pepper. Adjust the heat so the broth barely bubbles and cook the grits uncovered for 35 minutes, adding ¼ cup water each time the mixture threatens to cook dry.

3. While the grits cooks, brown the tasso in a small, heavy skillet over moderate heat for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the red and green bell peppers and cook for about 3 minutes or until crisp-tender. Set off the heat and reserve.

4. When the grits mixture is thick, blend in the cream and cook, stirring often, for 3 to 5 minutes or until steaming. Fold in the reserved tasso mixture.

5. Serve hot as an accompaniment to grilled or roast chicken, turkey, or pork. Good, too, with fried catfish.

GARLICKY CHEESE GRITS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This is my twist on an old southern classic. I’ve substituted quick-cooking grits for old-fashioned, added garlic (which few southern traditionalists would ever do), and substituted cayenne pepper for black because I like its