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12 cups (3 quarts) ¾-to 1-inch chunks stale, dry corn bread (Iron Skillet Corn Bread, Chapter 5, or your own favorite recipe; see headnote)

6 slices stale, dry firm-textured white bread, cut into ½-inch cubes (see headnote)

2 cups coarsely chopped toasted pecans (see Note above)

½ cup coarsely chopped parsley

1 pound hickory-smoked bacon, each slice cut crosswise into strips ½ inch wide

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, melted, or 1 cup bacon drippings or vegetable oil

2 very large yellow onions, coarsely chopped

4 large celery ribs, trimmed and coarsely chopped (include a few leaves)

1 tablespoon rubbed sage

1½ teaspoons dried leaf thyme, crumbled

6 cups chicken broth or stock

3 extra-large eggs, well beaten

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Spritz a 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray and set aside.

2. Place the two breads, pecans, and parsley in a very large mixing bowl and set aside.

3. Brown the bacon in a very large, heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring often, for 12 to 14 minutes until all the drippings render out. Drain the bacon on paper toweling and if you intend to use the drippings in the dressing, pour them into a measuring cup. You should have about 1 cup; if not, round out the measure with melted butter or vegetable oil.

4. Heat ½ cup of the melted butter or bacon drippings in the same skillet for about 1 minute over moderately high heat. Add the onions and celery and cook, stirring often, for 10 to 12 minutes until lightly browned. Add the sage and thyme, and cook and stir for 1 to 2 minutes more.

5. Scoop the skillet mixture into the mixing bowl along with the reserved bacon and remaining melted butter or bacon drippings; toss well. Add 3 cups of the chicken broth, the eggs, salt, and pepper and toss well again.

6. Transfer the dressing to the baking pan, spreading to the edges, then drizzle the remaining 3 cups chicken broth evenly on top.

7. Cover snugly with heavy-duty foil and bake on the middle oven shelf for 25 minutes. Stir the dressing well, cover again with foil, and bake 20 minutes more or until steaming.

8. Serve hot with roast turkey, chicken, or pork and top with lots of gravy.

CHESAPEAKE OYSTER–CORN BREAD DRESSING

MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

Some years ago when Food & Wine asked me to write an article on regional American turkey stuffings, I knew that this one was a “must.” I’d found it in my mother’s recipe file, dog-eared and double-starred. Ever meticulous about recipe sources, Mother had written “Mrs. Johnson, Whitestone, VA” in the upper right-hand corner of the card. She was the wife of the farmer who served as caretaker for our summer cottage. Located on what we called “the little bay,” an inlet of the Chesapeake, our cottage was just downriver from an oyster pound. Even though I’m allergic to oysters, I did enjoy chugging up Anti-Poison Creek with my father to fetch them for my mother. The recipe below is adapted from the one that appeared in Food & Wine. Note: As for corn bread, use any favorite recipe (not a mix because most are too sweet) as long as it’s firm enough to break into chunks without disintegrating. I favor Iron Skillet Corn Bread.

1½ pints shucked oysters with their liquor

5 cups coarsely crumbled stale, dry corn bread (see Note above)

4 cups coarsely crumbled soda crackers

4 medium celery ribs, trimmed and coarsely chopped (include a few leaves)

1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped

¼ cup minced fresh parsley

2 teaspoons poultry seasoning

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

¾ cup (1½ sticks) butter, melted

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Spritz a deep 3-quart casserole with nonstick cooking spray. Also lightly coat the dull side of a large piece of aluminum foil with nonstick spray; set both aside.

2. Pour the oysters and their liquor into a large fine sieve set over a large bowl. Measure out and reserve 1 cup of the liquor; if there is insufficient oyster liquor, round