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By Root 969 0

invariably like it. Use a corn bread mix if you must. Your salad will be better, however, if you take time to bake a batch of corn bread (do it several days ahead so it has time to dry). The corn bread recipe I suggest below provides just the right amount of one-inch corn bread chunks (about eight cups) and, unlike that prepared from a mix, isn’t sweet. Note: Frugal southern cooks have always saved bacon drippings to use as a seasoning. This salad owes its smoky-meaty flavor to them. If you have no drippings, use those created below and round out the measure with corn or vegetable oil (but don’t expect the salad to be as flavorful). Better yet, make a “southernized” panzanella of the salad by substituting a fruity olive oil.

1 recipe Iron Skillet Corn Bread, baked as directed and cooled (see headnote)

8 ounces hickory-smoked bacon, cut crosswise into strips ½ inch wide

2/3 cup bacon drippings (see Note above)

2/3 cup corn, vegetable, or olive oil

1/3 cup cider vinegar, or to taste

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped

1 large red onion, coarsely chopped

4 firm-ripe Roma (Italian plum) tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced but not peeled

1/3 cup coarsely diced, well-drained bread and butter pickles or sweet pickles

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F.

2. Halve the corn bread horizontally, then break into 1-inch chunks. Spread on two ungreased large jelly-roll pans, slide into the oven, and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until crisp and lightly browned.

3. Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a large, heavy skillet over moderately high heat for about 10 minutes, stirring now and then, until all of the drippings render out and only crisp brown bits remain. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the bacon to paper toweling to drain.

4. Pour the drippings into a 1-quart measure, add enough additional bacon drippings to total 2/3 cup, then add the corn oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Return all to the skillet and set over lowest heat.

5. Place the bell pepper, onion, tomatoes, and pickles in a large heatproof bowl. As soon as the corn bread is crisp and lightly browned, remove from the oven and dump on top of the vegetables in the bowl. This will wilt them slightly and mellow their flavor.

6. Now drizzle the hot skillet mixture evenly into the bowl and toss the salad well. Taste for salt, pepper, and vinegar, adjust as needed, and toss well again.

7. Serve as an accompaniment to fried chicken, roast pork, or chicken. Good, too, with pork chops, baked ham, and hot dogs. Note: If you make the salad ahead of time, let it come to room temperature before serving. Toss well and dish up.

SWEET-SOUR COLESLAW

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Down south there are three basic types of coleslaw: Sweet Slaw (shredded cabbage and sometimes carrots in a sweet and creamy mayonnaise dressing; at right), Barbecue Slaw (coarsely shredded or sliced cabbage in a peppery, reddish, oil-and-vinegar dressing;), and this distinctly Germanic oil-and-vinegar–dressed slaw containing onion and green bell pepper as well as cabbage. Was it introduced by German settlers funneling south from Pennsylvania and points north through the Shenandoah Valley? My research suggests so. This isn’t a fancy recipe and its flavor improves on standing in the refrigerator. Because it’s less likely to spoil than mayonnaise-dressed slaws, it’s a good choice for a picnic.

Coleslaw

8 cups (2 quarts) finely sliced cabbage (you’ll need a 2½-to 2¾-pound cabbage)

1 medium-size green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped

1 medium-size sweet onion (Vidalia, Spanish, or Bermuda), finely chopped

Dressing

1 cup cider vinegar

¾ cup sugar

2/3 cup corn oil or vegetable oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon celery seeds

1. For the coleslaw: Place the cabbage, bell pepper, and onion in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Toss well and set aside.

2. For the dressing: Combine all ingredients in a small nonreactive pan and bring to a boil over moderate