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thought that Angel Biscuits descended from an old Alabama recipe called Riz Biscuits (see preceding recipe), which she remembered from her childhood. Helen Moore, a freelance food columnist living near Charlotte, North Carolina, told me that a home economics professor of hers at Winthrop College in South Carolina had given her the Angel Biscuits recipe back in the 1950s. “I remember her saying, ‘I’ve got a wonderful new biscuit recipe. It’s got yeast in it.’” Others I’ve queried insist that Angel Biscuits were created at one of the fine southern flour millers; some say at White Lily, others at Martha White (and both are old Nashville companies). In addition to the soft flour used to make them, Angel Biscuits owe their airiness to three leavenings: yeast, baking powder, and baking soda. Small wonder they’re also called “bride’s biscuits.” They are virtually foolproof.

5 cups sifted all-purpose flour (preferably a fine southern flour; see headnote)

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

¼ cup sugar

2 teaspoons salt

1 cup firmly packed vegetable shortening or lard or a half-and-half mixture of the two

2 cups buttermilk

One ¼-ounce package active dry yeast dissolved in ¼ cup very warm water (105° to 115° F.)

1. Preheat the oven to 400° F.

2. Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt into a large mixing bowl. Using a pastry blender, cut in the shortening until the texture of coarse meal. Add the buttermilk and yeast mixture and toss briskly with a fork just until the mixture forms a soft dough.

3. Turn the dough onto a well-floured surface and with floured hands, knead lightly for about a minute. With a floured rolling pin, roll the dough out until 5/8 inch thick; then, using a well-floured 2½-to 2¾-inch cutter, cut into rounds. Place on ungreased baking sheets, spacing about 1½ inches apart. Gather scraps, reroll, and cut as before.

4. Bake in the lower third of the oven for 15 to 18 minutes or until the biscuits are nicely puffed and pale tan on top. Serve at once with plenty of butter.

SWEET POTATO BISCUITS

MAKES ABOUT 1 DOZEN BISCUITS

A while back when I was writing a food and travel story for Bon Appétit on the James River Plantations of Virginia, one of the charming local hostesses I interviewed was Payne Tyler of Sherwood Forest, the country estate of President John Tyler (Payne’s husband, Harrison Ruffin Tyler, is a grandson). A favorite family recipe, which I’ve adapted from Payne’s original, are these delicate sweet potato biscuits. “There’s a story that goes with them,” Payne told me. “I grew up at Mulberry Hill Plantation in Edgefield County, South Carolina, eighteen miles from Aiken. My best friend’s grandmother—everybody called her ‘Dearest’—ate breakfast every morning at ten and it was always the same: sweet potato biscuits, tea, and guava jelly. My friend Emily Ann and I liked them so much we often raced from school to Dearest’s home and ate her breakfast,” Payne continues. “She just sat there, smiled, and watched us. Never said a negative word, but I presume someone cooked another breakfast for her. Anyhow, that’s how I happen to have the receipt for these sweet potato biscuits. They are marvelous with goose or duck.” I also like them with roast turkey, chicken, and pork and with baked Virginia ham. Note: I bake the sweet potato for this recipe instead of boiling it because it will be less watery and have richer flavor (one hour at 400° F. is about right).

1¾ cups sifted all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

¼ cup firmly packed lard or vegetable shortening

1 cup firmly packed unseasoned mashed sweet potato (about 1 large potato; see Note above)

¾ cup milk

1. Preheat the oven to 400° F.

2. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt into a large mixing bowl; then, using a pastry blender or two knives, cut in the lard until the texture of coarse meal. Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture.

3. Combine the mashed sweet potato and milk in a small bowl, whisking until smooth; pour into the well in the flour mixture and