A Love Affair With Southern Cooking_ Recipes and Recollections - Jean Anderson [185]
1966
Birmingham-based Progressive Farmer magazine becomes Southern Living because of migrations from country to city. First called Southern Living Classics, it becomes Southern Living after its 1985 merger with Southern Accents, an Atlanta magazine.
To connect with his students at Rabun County High School in the mountains of northeast Georgia, English teacher Eliot Wigginton helps them create their own magazine. They name it Foxfire (after a phosphorescent fungus found in local forests) and focus upon the food and folkways of the Georgia Appalachians. Foxfire is still published twice a year.
Mississippi finally repeals Prohibition—the last state to do so.
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PEANUT BUTTER ICE CREAM WITH WARM CHOCOLATE SAUCE
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Shortly before Hurricane Hugo ravaged Charleston back in 1989, Food & Wine sent me there to write an article on the Lowcountry, which also included Beaufort, South Carolina, and Savannah, Georgia. At the time, Charleston was just emerging as a restaurant town and a new arrival that I particularly liked was Morton’s on the first floor of a boutique bed-and-break-fast called the Vendue Inn. Everything I ordered was first-rate but nothing more so than this ice cream, which arrived on a plate elaborately painted with raspberry coulis, crème anglaise, and chocolate sauce. I dispense with the art work and serve the ice cream under simple ladlings of chocolate sauce. Though battered by Hugo’s 135-mile-an-hour winds and swamped by tidal surges, the Vendue Inn is back and better than ever. Morton’s is gone, however, replaced by a rooftop bar and restaurant with a gull’s-eye view of Charleston harbor. Note: Raw egg yolks go into this ice cream, so use pasteurized eggs (see About Pasteurized Eggs, frontmatter).
1 cup firmly packed creamy-style peanut butter
4 cups (1 quart) milk
8 large pasteurized egg yolks (see Note above)
¾ cup sugar
Warm Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows)
1. Place the peanut butter and milk in a medium-size heavy saucepan, set over moderately low heat, and cook, whisking constantly, for 3 to 5 minutes or until the peanut butter melts and the mixture is completely smooth. Set off the heat, cover, and keep warm.
2. Beat the egg yolks and sugar in a large electric mixer bowl at high speed for 8 to 10 minutes until the color and consistency of mayonnaise. With the mixer at low speed, slowly add the warm peanut butter mixture. Put through a fine sieve and quick-chill in an ice bath, whisking often.
3. Pour the ice cream mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions.
4. Scoop the ice cream onto dessert plates and top with Warm Chocolate Sauce.
WARM CHOCOLATE SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
Serve with the homemade Peanut Butter Ice Cream that precedes or with commercial vanilla, hazelnut, butter pecan, dulce de leche, or chocolate ice cream. Note: For clarified butter, melt 1 cup (2 sticks) butter in a small, heavy saucepan over low heat, then set aside until the milk solids settle to the bottom. Strain the liquid butter through a fine sieve lined with several thicknesses of cheesecloth. Or even easier, skim the froth from the melted butter, then very slowly pour it into a measuring cup, leaving the milk solids behind.
1 pound bittersweet chocolate, coarsely grated
¾ cup clarified butter (see Note at left)
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Place the chocolate and clarified butter in the top of a double boiler, set over simmering water, and cook over low heat, stirring often, for 3 to 4 minutes or until absolutely smooth. Set off the heat and blend in the vanilla.
2. Serve warm over ice cream. Good, too, over pound cake.
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TIME LINE: the people and events that shaped Southern Cuisine
1967
The National Football League names Gatorade its official sports drink.
Buddy Smothers enters the barbecue business in Knoxville, Tennessee, because he misses what he grew up on back in Alabama. Some say Buddy’s Bar-B-Q, a small family chain, serves east Tennessee’s best. Buddy’s motto: