A Love Affair With Southern Cooking_ Recipes and Recollections - Jean Anderson [230]
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ABOUT PICKLING LIME (CALCIUM HYDROXIDE)
To crisp green tomato pickles and other favorites, southern cooks have always used pickling lime (also called slaked lime, hydrated lime, or lime hydrate). Although its safety has been questioned of late, two food safety specialists with the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service in Raleigh (Angela M. Fraser, Ph.D., and Carolyn J. Lackey, Ph.D.) believe that food-grade pickling lime is safe if you follow their recently published guidelines.
Be sure to use lime as a soak solution only and to rinse product [food being pickled] in several changes of water before proceeding with recipe. Do not use lime purchased from lumber supply stores for food use.
To eliminate excess lime, the U.S. Department of Agriculture suggests resoaking “limed” food three times in fresh water, allowing one hour for each soak, then rinsing well afterward.
To these caveats, I’d add another: Avoid inhaling pickling lime dust.
Food-grade pickling lime can be bought at some pharmacies and at housewares stores that sell canning supplies. (Also see Sources, backmatter.)
If you’re still skeptical about the safety of pickling lime, substitute Ball’s new Pickle Crisp (calcium chloride), using as directed. You can also crisp pickles by layering them with grape leaves (preferably scuppernong leaves) overnight in a large nonreactive kettle. The bitter tannin in grape leaves inhibits the enzymatic action that softens fruits and vegetables. Before proceeding with your recipe, remove the grape leaves and rinse the food to be pickled.
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FARMER’S MARKET CORN RELISH
MAKES 8 TO 10 PINTS
This recipe was given to my mother long ago by the woman at the Raleigh farmer’s market from whom she bought corn. I don’t remember Mother making the relish; indeed her handwritten, card-file recipe for it is pristine. I, on the other hand, often put up a batch of relish during the all-too-short sweet-corn season. It’s delicious with baked ham or roast pork, turkey, or chicken. I’ve even tossed it into salads, casseroles, and corn breads. Note: Cut the kernels from the cob carefully and cleanly; you don’t want the corn’s “milk” to cloud the relish.
16 medium ears just-picked yellow sweet corn, shucked and stripped of silks
4 cups (1 quart) finely diced celery (about 1 large bunch)
2 cups (1 pint) finely diced, cored, and seeded green bell peppers (about 3 large)
2 cups (1 pint) finely diced, cored, and seeded red bell peppers (about 3 large)
1 cup moderately coarsely chopped yellow onion (about 1 large)
4 cups (1 quart) cider vinegar
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons pickling salt or coarse salt
2 teaspoons celery seeds
¼ cup unsifted all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons dry mustard
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground hot red pepper (cayenne)
1/3 cup cold water
1. Boil the ears of corn uncovered in a large, heavy kettle of unsalted water for 10 minutes; drain and quick-chill in ice water. Drain well again and cut the kernels from the cobs. Tip: Holding an ear at a slight angle to a cutting board, I cut straight down, freeing about 3 rows of kernels at a time. Do not scrape the cobs. Measure out and reserve 8 cups (2 quarts) of the corn kernels (save any extra for chowder or corn bread).
2. Wash and rinse 10 one-pint preserving jars and their closures and submerge in a large kettle of boiling water.
3. Place the celery, green and red bell peppers, onion, vinegar, sugar, salt, and celery seeds in a very large nonreactive kettle. Set over high heat and bring quickly to a boil. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, blend the flour, mustard, turmeric, cayenne, and water in a small bowl to form a smooth paste. Whisk in a little of the hot relish liquid, then stir back into the kettle. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes or until slightly thickened.
5. Add the 8 cups corn kernels, cover, and boil for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6. Lift the preserving