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Two 10-ounce jars marinated artichoke hearts, drained as dry as possible

4 medium scallions, trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks (white part only)

1 small whole garlic clove

1 cup firmly packed sour cream (use “light,” if you like) (see Note above)

½ cup firmly packed mayonnaise (use “light,” if you like)

½ teaspoon salt (about)

½ teaspoon hot red pepper sauce (about)

1. Place all ingredients in an electric blender or food processor and whiz for 10 to 15 seconds or until fairly smooth. Taste for salt and hot pepper sauce and adjust as needed.

2. Scoop into a small nonreactive bowl, cover, and refrigerate for several hours.

3. Remove the dip from the refrigerator and allow to stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes before serving.

Martha fixed lunch for Zelma and me that day…. She made us biscuits and fried white bacon, and served her best preserves. She had baked sweet potatoes still hot in the wood range and when we left she gave us a paper sack of them to carry with us.

—MARJORIE KINNAN RAWLINGS, CROSS CREEK

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TO MAKE SASSAFRAS TEA

Wash the roots, cut in 2-to 3-inch pieces, place in a deep pan, cover with cold water, and boil for about 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and serve hot. Add lemon or sugar, if desired.

“The tea is a delicate pink and is delicious as a cold beverage.”

—Mrs. I. K. Day, Iredell County, North Carolina

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DEVILED VIDALIA DIP

MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS

I’m so fond of Georgia’s sweet Vidalia onions that I decided to make a dip of them. On the first try I caramelized two pounds of Vidalias and even with my insatiable sweet tooth, found the dip more dessert than appetizer. By substituting sharper yellow onions for half the Vidalias, I came up with a dip that reminds me of the agrodolce (sweet-sour) onions I’ve enjoyed in Italy. I also think that using a dozen scallions (white part only) in place of one of the yellow onions would be equally delicious. I like this dip best with melba rounds, salty crackers, and peppery radishes, although it’s good, too, with raw cauliflower or broccoli florets. Note: When I call for something to be “firmly packed,” spoon it into a dry cup measure, packing as you go, then level off the top with the broad side of a small thin-blade spatula.

3 tablespoons butter

1 very large Vidalia onion (about 1 pound), coarsely chopped

2 medium yellow onions (about 1 pound), coarsely chopped (see headnote)

1 tablespoon cider vinegar or balsamic vinegar

1 cup firmly packed sour cream (use “light,” if you like)

¼ cup firmly packed Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

½ teaspoon hot red pepper sauce, or to taste

1. Melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet over moderate heat. Add the Vidalia and yellow onions and cook uncovered, stirring now and then, for about 1 hour or until the color of pale caramel. Do not rush the caramelization by raising the burner heat; you risk burning the onions. Toward the end of cooking, stir the onions every few minutes.

2. Mix in the vinegar and cook and stir for about 1 minute or until it evaporates.

3. Remove the skillet from the heat and mix in all remaining ingredients. Taste for salt, black pepper, and hot pepper sauce and adjust as needed.

4. Serve warm or at room temperature as a cocktail dip.

PEPPERED PECANS

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

These party-perfect pecans (or one of their countless variations) have long been popular down south. Some hostesses make double or triple batches and store the nuts in airtight containers as insurance against drop-in guests. Note: The nuts you use should be absolutely fresh (see Sources, backmatter) because no amount of seasoning can mask the rankness of rancid nuts. Tip: Here’s a dish-and time-saver: Place the butter and garlic in a two-quart ovenproof glass measuring cup and microwave for about three minutes on LOW or until the butter melts. Let stand in the microwave for 5 minutes. Fish out the garlic, whisk in the Worcestershire