A Love Affair With Southern Cooking_ Recipes and Recollections - Jean Anderson [76]
1862
The Café du Monde opens for business in the French Market of New Orleans. It is still there and its beignets and dark coffee-with-chicory are as popular as ever.
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SUPER-CRUNCHY FRIED CHICKEN
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
If you’ve ever wondered what gives fried chicken a super-crunchy crust, I’ve three words for you: self-rising flour. It contains baking powder and when the chicken is dipped into buttermilk, then into self-rising flour, the acid in the milk reacts with the baking powder: You can see it fizz. Then when the chicken goes into 360° F. fat, it fizzes further still. Talking one night with Bill Smith, the chef at Crook’s Corner in Chapel Hill, I learned a couple of his secrets. He fries his chicken in a Dutch oven in just enough oil to float the pieces, and once they begin to brown, he reduces the heat and covers the pot. That way he knows the chicken won’t burn by the time it’s done. Only during the last few minutes does the lid come off. I use a five-inch-deep, enameled cast-iron Dutch oven twelve inches across—just big enough to accommodate all of the chicken at once. Its lid can be set on askew, leaving room for a deep-fat thermometer. Because this chicken is salted, then refrigerated for at least 12 hours, you must begin the recipe a day ahead of time. Note: After finding no chickens weighing less than four pounds at my grocery, I fussed at the butcher. “Go to the take-out section,” he said. “They may let you have a raw rotisserie chicken. They’re under three pounds.” I did. And they did—something to try the next time you can’t find a small fryer.
One 2½-to 2¾-pound broiler-fryer, cut up for frying (see Note at left)
1½ teaspoons salt
Vegetable oil for deep-fat frying (you’ll need about 8 cups or 2 quarts)
1½ cups buttermilk
1½ cups unsifted self-rising flour
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
½ teaspoon black pepper
1. Arrange the pieces of chicken one layer deep in a large, shallow, nonreactive pan and sprinkle with half the salt. Turn the chicken and sprinkle the flip sides with the remaining salt. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours but for no more than 24.
2. When ready to fry the chicken, pour the oil into a large, heavy Dutch oven at least 5 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter. Insert a deep-fat thermometer and set over moderately high heat. Let the oil heat slowly; it may take 35 to 45 minutes for the oil to reach the proper frying temperature of 360° F.
3. When the oil reaches 330° to 340° F., pour the buttermilk into a small bowl, then combine the flour, paprika, and pepper in a pie pan.
4. Dip each piece of chicken into the buttermilk, then roll in the flour mixture until thickly coated. Arrange the chicken pieces on a foil-lined tray so that they don’t touch.
5. As soon as the oil reaches 360° F., ease in the chicken breasts and thighs, then the drum-sticks, wings, and backs, arranging so the pieces don’t touch or barely touch. The oil will sputter and its temperature will plummet to around 300° F. Not a problem. The initial searing will have sealed the crust.
6. Slide the lid onto the Dutch oven, leaving enough room at the edge for the deep-fat thermometer. Continue frying the chicken, raising and lowering the burner heat to keep the temperature of the oil between 290° F. and 300° F.
7. After about 10 minutes, lift out a chicken wing and insert an instant-read thermometer in the meatiest part, not touching bone. If it reads 170° F., the wing is done. Remove the other wing, also the backs, and drain on several thicknesses of paper toweling.
8. After 15 minutes, test the chicken thighs the same way and if done, drain on paper toweling. After 18 to 20 minutes, the breasts should be done, but test to make sure.
9. Cool the chicken about 20 minutes on the paper toweling, then serve warm. Or, if you prefer, cool to room temperature before serving.