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4. Scoop the chicken mixture into an unbaked 9-inch pie shell, then ease the top crust into place. Trim the crust so it overhangs the pie about one inch all round, then roll the top and bottom crusts under so that they rest upon the rim. Crimp to seal, making a high fluted edge, and cut decorative steam vents in the top crust.

5. Slide the pie onto the preheated baking sheet and bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until richly browned.

6. Cool the pie for 20 minutes, then, using a sharp serrated knife, cut into wedges and serve.

Slow as molasses in January.

—OLD SOUTHERN SAYING

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Heirloom Recipe

BAKED WILD DUCK

Parboil duck for five minutes with small piece celery and small sliced onion. Drain; rub inside and out with salt and pepper and pinch ground ginger. Place inside duck a half of small onion, piece of apple studded with cloves, and a small white potato. Bake 20 minutes at 450 degrees uncovered; reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake covered 15 to 20 minutes per pound. Baste with equal parts melted butter, hot water and red wine or orange juice.

—Roanoke Island Cook Book, compiled by members and friends of the Manteo Woman’s Club, Manteo, North Carolina

Recipe contributed by Mrs. Woodie Fearing

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BAKED CHICKEN SALAD

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

I have no idea what southern cook decided to bake a chicken salad, but it was an inspired idea and variations on the theme now appear in scores of community cookbooks. I remember my first taste of baked chicken salad at a home demonstration club potluck luncheon in the North Carolina mountain town of Boone. I complimented the woman who’d made it on her “chicken casserole” only to be abruptly corrected: “Chicken casserole, you call it? This ain’t no casserole! This is baked chicken salad!” And so it was—all the makings of chicken salad bubbling underneath a crunchy crumb crust. Here’s my version of that old Watauga County recipe with a bit of garlic added. “Land sakes!” I can hear that feisty farm woman saying. “Garlic!” Back then, few good southern cooks ever used garlic—even garlic powder or salt. How things have changed! Note: This recipe is also an excellent way to recycle turkey leftovers.

3 tablespoons bacon drippings or vegetable oil

1 large yellow onion, moderately coarsely chopped

2 large celery ribs, trimmed and moderately coarsely chopped

1 medium garlic clove, finely chopped

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

One 12-ounce can evaporated milk (use “light,” if you like)

1 cup chicken broth

1/3 cup firmly packed mayonnaise-relish sandwich spread

4 cups bite-size pieces cooked chicken or turkey

1/3 cup coarsely chopped parsley

One 4-ounce jar diced pimientos, well drained

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

1½ cups moderately fine soft bread crumbs tossed with 1½ tablespoons butter, melted

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Spritz a shallow 2-quart casserole with nonstick cooking spray and set aside.

2. Heat the drippings in a large, heavy skillet over moderately high heat for 1 minute, add the onion, celery, and garlic, and cook, stirring often, for 10 to 12 minutes or until lightly browned. Blend in the flour and cook and stir for about 1 minute.

3. Add the evaporated milk and broth and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 to 5 minutes or until the mixture boils and thickens. Set off the heat and mix in the sandwich spread, then the chicken, parsley, pimientos, salt, and pepper.

4. Scoop into the casserole, spreading to the edge, then scatter the buttered crumbs evenly over all.

5. Slide onto the middle oven shelf and bake uncovered for about 30 minutes or until bubbling and tipped with brown.

6. Serve at once as the main course of a casual lunch or supper. Or do as that Watauga County farm woman did and make it your contribution to a potluck supper.

Miss Sadie sniffed. “Fried chicken in the daytime is too heavy if you’ve got work to do. Why not chicken salad?”

—JAN KARON, A LIGHT IN THE WINDOW