Adventures Among Ants - Mark W. Moffett [7]
I had arrived in India in the fall of 1981, primed to explore the social lives of the minor, media, and major workers of Pheidologeton diversus. My first stop had been Bangalore, more specifically its prestigious university, the Indian Institute of Science. My host was Raghavendra Gadagkar, a professor whose subject was the social behavior of wasps. He believed in learning from experience and smiled at my naïveté and youthful enthusiasm. Rather than teaching me how to eat rice without utensils, in the local fashion, for instance (the nuances of handling hot food bare-handed are many), he dropped me at the door of a local restaurant, recommended I order the “plate meal,” and came back for me an hour later. During that first lunch I spilled more than I ate.
Bangalore was going through a dry spell, and I had trouble finding any Pheidologeton. Raghavendra recommended I try the Western Ghats, a chain of low mountains famous for its forests and wildlife, just inland of the western coastline of India. On the road from Bangalore to the coast was a village named Sullia. I was told it had a forestry office where I would find both accommodations and advice.
The next day, I learned a basic fact about Indian bus drivers: they were trained to accelerate around blind curves as if suicide were a career expectation. After a stomach-churning ride, I was dropped at the drowsy center of Sullia. I hoofed it to the forestry office, where I was delivered into the presence of Mr. Beeramoidin, who listened attentively to my explanation of ant diversity and then told me the guesthouse was full. Afterward, out under the roasting sun, my nerves jangling at the thought of the harrowing six-hour ride back to Bangalore, I kicked a tree in frustration—and got my first taste of Pheidologeton diversus. Hundreds of the tiny minor workers stormed from the earth, the major worker among them looking like an elephant among pygmies. Even Mr. Beeramoidin gave an impressed whistle, conceding with an enthusiastic rocking of his head that Sullia may be more of an ant haven than he thought.
Struck by my preternatural ant-locating skills, Mr. Beeramoidin promised to find me a place to stay. An old man with a limp appeared. The two men conducted a rapid-fire conversation in the local Kanaka language, then the old man guided me down the road to a tiny room next to a mosque. Except for a thin sleeping mat, it was bare: no toilet, water, electricity. That night, I lay for hours watching geckos in the moonlight. Awakened at dawn by the call to prayer, I hobbled to my feet, rubbing my fingers across the areas where the mat’s reed latticework had impressed a design like a city map into my flesh.
Finding ants in the dry forests around Sullia proved as arduous as it had been in Bangalore. That first morning, the ants in front of the forestry office had vanished, as had Mr. Beeramoidin, whom I never saw again. I decided to comb the forests, but they were desiccated. It wasn’t until the fourth day of looking that a diversionary hike at the edge of town through a watered plantation of stately oil palms brought me luck—a batch of Pheidologeton diversus crossing my path. I fell to my knees, thrilled to finally find some of Captain Bingham’s fabled swarming ants, and began inspecting the diversus column.
Minor workers of the marauder ant riding on an especially large major (a “giant”).
First, a marvelous sight: a major worker was careening along carrying a dozen minors, much like the elephant whose mahout, or trainer, had given me a wave from the back of his pachyderm soon after my arrival in Sullia. Except the ant passengers didn’t appear to be giving instructions to their beast of burden. Why were they there? I could see no evidence that the minors were cleaning or protecting their mount. I decided they were probably hitching a ride for a simple and practical reason: it takes less energy to ride than it does to walk.