Aftertaste - Meredith Mileti [1]
A debt of gratitude is owed to Jennifer McDowell, equal parts coach, cheerleader, and dear friend.
To Sharon Oddson, owner of Trattoria Garga, in Firenze, grazie mille for teaching me to roll pasta with a rolling pin and for showing me what it takes to make a successful woman chef.
To my children, Stephanie, Amanda, and Mark, for loving good stories and allowing me my obsessions and who every day make me proud to be their mother.
To my father, Robert Mileti, the greatest gourmand I know, who took me to Italy and taught me to cook.
And, finally, to David, who makes all my dreams come true.
Antipasti
Cooking is a troublesome sprite.
—Pellegrino Artusi
chapter 1
The best thing about the location of the Manhattan County Courthouse is its proximity to Nelly’s. Nelly’s is a take-out stand that serves the best lamb burger this side of Auckland. Cooked rare, and topped with goat cheese and a fried egg so fresh its yolk oozes orange, it’s the last meal I will ask for if ever I find myself on death row.
Climbing the steps to the courthouse, I imagine I am one of New Zealand’s intrepid settlers, a nefarious wanderer let loose on the shores of a place new and dangerous, armed with the fortitude only a good meal can provide. I stuff the last delicious morsel into my mouth, savoring the finale, the unctuous tang of the cheese, the bracing bite of the lamb, wishing I’d ordered a beer to go with it. Maybe two.
The criminal division is on the second floor, and stepping off the elevator, I pass through security, where I’m checked for weapons before being let loose to wander freely among the drug addicts, street criminals, and those poor souls wrongly accused of being criminals (of whom, looking around, I suspect there are few). Everyone has a hunted look. They huddle in doorways and dimly lit hallways; some are handcuffed or shackled. The air is thick with the smell of unwashed bodies, of anger and despair. Police officers in various stages of disenchantment with humanity mill around officially, sipping burnt coffee provided free of charge by the grateful taxpayers of Manhattan.
The probation department is located in a slightly more hopeful annex, seven steps up and to the left of the criminal courtrooms. It is the third time I have found myself here, and I know it will not be my last. I have been court-ordered to attend a series of anger-management classes. We meet on Tuesday afternoons, a half a floor removed from the felons, but the smell of anger and despair is here as well. Although it is the third class of six, I think I’ve regressed. My anger is closer to the surface this time; I can feel it hot and palpable under the collar of my shirt, in the pulse in my neck, and in the palms of my clenched fists. Six of us sit in a circle on the green linoleum floor that looks and feels as if it hasn’t been washed in years. The instructor, Mary Ann, is a licensed clinical social worker. She walks slowly behind us, repeating what are supposed to be soothing phrases. “Breathe in the clean, white air. When you exhale, picture your breath as black and hot. It is your anger. Release it, and let it go.” It is how we began the last two classes, and it is, I assume, how we will begin them all. When she gets to me, she places a light hand on my shoulder and says softly, “Mira, you’re very tense. Try to unclench your fists. Exhale that black, hot anger.” She gives my shoulder an encouraging squeeze and moves on.
“Think of what makes you angry,” she continues, in a hushed, singsongy voice. “When you feel your body begin to tense, take a cleansing breath, let out that black smoke, and repeat,