Amsterdam (Rough Guide) - Martin Dunford [110]
The Old Centre
Absinthe Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 171. Small, late-night basement lounge bar, slightly hidden from the street, but in a prime position close to the area’s bars and clubs. Not surprisingly, it specializes in absinthe – or at least the turn-of-the-twentieth-century decadence that’s associated with it. DJs at the weekend. Daily from 10pm.
In ’t Aepjen Zeedijk 1. This building has been a bar since the days when Zeedijk was a haunt for sailors gambling away their last few guilder and having to pay by barter rather than cash. Its name – literally “In the Monkeys” – refers to the fact that monkeys were once the stock in trade here. There are no monkeys now, but not much else has changed.
De Bekeerde Suster Kloveniersburgwal 6. Don’t waste your time in the unappealing bars of the Red Light District proper; this place is a few steps away and offers home-brewed beer, a good bar menu and a very convivial atmosphere, just off the top end of Nieuwmarkt. Mon–Thurs 3pm–1am, Fri & Sat noon–2am, Sun noon–midnight.
Belgique Gravenstraat 2. Tiny and very appealing bar behind the Nieuwe Kerk that specializes in brews from Belgium. Sample them with plates of Dutch and Trappist cheese. Daily 3pm–1am.
Blincker St Barberenstraat 7. Squeezed between the top end of Nes and Oudezijds Voorburgwal, this hi-tech theatre bar, all exposed steel and hanging plants, is very nicely done – and more comfortable than it looks. Also serves decent food. Mon–Thurs 11am–1am, Fri & Sat 11am–3am.
Bubbles & Wines Nes 37. Over 50 wines available by the glass in this intimate and elegant wine and champagne bar. The knowledgeable staff will advise you on drinks to suit your taste. Mon–Sat from 3.30pm, Sun from 2pm.
De Buurvrouw St Pieterspoortsteeg 29. Dark, noisy bar with a wildly eclectic crowd; a great alternative place to head for in the centre. Mon–Thurs 9pm–3am, Fri–Sun 9pm–4am.
Dante Spuistraat 320. A wannabe trendy bar-cum-art gallery right in the heart of the city’s densest concentration of watering holes. There are cosier places, but to peruse the art – and the people perusing the art – it’s decent enough.
Diep Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 256. Not much more than an ordinary brown café during the day, but a hip hangout with DJs at night. Mon–Thurs 5pm–1am, Fri–Sun 5am–3am.
Het Doktertje Roozenboomsteeg 4. Small, dark, brown café with stained glass to keep you from being ogled by the world outside. Liqueurs fill the shelves behind the tiny bar. Tues–Sat 4pm–1am.
De Drie Fleschjes Gravenstraat 16. Long-standing tasting house for spirits and liqueurs. No beer, and no seats either; its clients tend to be well heeled or wellsoused (often both). Mon–Sat noon–8.30pm, Sun 3–8pm.
De Engelbewaarder Kloveniersburgwal 59. Once the meeting place of Amsterdam’s bookish types, this is still known as a literary café. It’s relaxed and informal, with live jazz on Sunday afternoons. Mon–Thurs 11am–1am, Fri & Sat 11am–3am, Sun 2pm–1am.
De Engelse Reet Begijnensteeg 4. Also known as the Pilsener Club, this place is more like someone’s living room than a bar – indeed, all drinks mysteriously appear from a back room. Photographs on the wall record generations of drinking, which has been going on here since 1893.
Gaeper Staalstraat 4. Convivial brown café packed during term time with students from the university across the canal. Tasty food, plus outdoor seating good for people-watching.
’t Gasthuis Grimburgwal 7. Another brown café popular with students. Both this place and Gaeper are run by brothers, and they’re done up in more or less the same style. Here, some of Amsterdam’s cheapest hot food is served, both at lunchtime and in the evenings.
Gollem Raamsteeg 4. Small, cosy, split-level bar with rickety furniture, wood panelling and a comprehensive selection of Belgian beers, plus a few Dutch brews for variety – and with the correct glasses to drink them from. The genial barman will help you choose. Mon–Fri 4pm–1am, Sat & Sun 2pm–2am.
Gollem
Hoppe Spui 18. One of Amsterdam’s longest-established and best-known bars, and a likeable, scruffy