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Amsterdam (Rough Guide) - Martin Dunford [112]

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noon–1am (Fri & Sat till 2am).

Het Papeneiland Prinsengracht 2. With its wood panelling, antique Delft tiles and ancient stove, this rabbit warren of a place is one of the cosiest bars in the Grachtengordel. Jam-packed late at night with a garrulous crew of locals and tourists alike. Daily 10am–1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

De Pieper Prinsengracht 424. Laid-back neighbourhood brown bar, at the corner of Leidsegracht, with rickety old furniture and a mini-terrace beside the canal. Has a surprisingly large selection of liqueurs plus a genial, sometimes very drunk, atmosphere. Mon–Thurs 11am–1am (Fri & Sat till 2am).

De Prins Prinsengracht 124. With its well-worn decor and chatty atmosphere, this popular and lively bar offers a wide range of drinks and a well-priced bar menu with food served from 10am to 9pm. Large – at least in Amsterdam terms – and airy, it’s popular with twenty-somethings. Daily 10am–1am.

Van Puffelen Prinsengracht 375/7. This long-established and popular spot is divided into two, with a brown café-bar on one side and an eetcafe on the other. The café-bar is an appealing place to drink, with a good choice of international beers, while the restaurant side concentrates on Dutch(ish) dishes with lots of organic frills, but the results are variable. Main courses average around €18, but the daily specials are much more economical. Mon–Wed from 3pm, Thurs–Sun from noon.

Eating and drinking | Bars |

Grachtengordel south

Café van Leeuwen Keizersgracht 711. Convivial café, jam-packed with the local in-crowd after a day at the office. Also a good selection of small bites, like tasty crostinis, and many wines by the glass. Occasional live jazz on Sunday. Mon–Thurs 9am–1am, Fri 9am–3am, Sat 10am–3am, Sun 11am–1am.

De Duivel Reguliersdwarsstraat 87. Tucked away on a street of bars and coffeeshops, this is the best hip-hop bar in Amsterdam, with non-stop beats and a faithful clientele. Daily 8pm–3/4am.

Herengracht Herengracht 34. Posh and up-to-the-minute spot, popular with the Amsterdam jet set. DJs on weekends. Daily 11am–1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

Lux Marnixstraat 403. Designer bar geared for the pre-club scene with a good line in full-volume house and regular DJs, attracting a young, alternative crowd. Daily 8pm–3am (Fri & Sat till 4am).

Morlang Keizersgracht 451. Lively, split-level bar-cum-restaurant decorated in soft, modern style and attracting a prosperous clientele. Good bar and occasional live music too. Next door to the Walem(see below). Daily 11am–1am.

Oosterling Utrechtsestraat 140. Intimate neighbourhood bar that’s been plying its trade for donkeys’ years. Kitted out in attractive traditional style, it specializes in jenever, with dozens of brands and varieties. No mobile phones. Mon–Sat noon–1am, Sun 1–8pm.

Walem Keizersgracht 449. A chic bar-restaurant – cool, light and vehemently un-brown; eat in or chill out at the bar with a Mojito. The clientele is stylish, and the food a hybrid of French- and Dutch-inspired dishes; mains start at €14.50. Breakfast in the garden during the summer is a highlight. Daily 10am–1am, Fri & Sat until 2am.

Weber Marnixstraat 397. Popular local hangout, just off the Leidseplein, attracting musicians, students and young professionals. Crowded and noisy on weekends. Daily 8pm–3am (Fri & Sat till 4am).

De Zotte Proeflokaal Raamstraat 29. Down a grubby alley not far from the Leidseplein, this laid-back bar specializes in Belgian beer, of which it has dozens of varieties. Daily 4pm–1am, bar food served 6–9.30pm.

Eating and drinking | Bars |

The Jordaan and Western docklands

De Blaffende Vis Westerstraat 118. Somewhat of an institution, this is a typical neighbourhood bar at the corner of the 2e Boomdwarsstraat. Nothing pretentious, but oodles of atmosphere and a well-priced bar menu. Daily 9am–1am, Mon from 7am, Fri & Sat till 3am.

Chris Bloemstraat 42. Very proud of being the Jordaan’s (and Amsterdam’s) oldest bar, dating from 1624, this place has a comfortable, homely atmosphere. Daily 3pm–1am, Fri & Sat until 2am, Sun till 9pm.

Dulac Haarlemmerstraat 118. Very

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