Amsterdam (Rough Guide) - Martin Dunford [116]
Pompadour Patisserie Huidenstraat 12. This patisserie sells fifty different sorts of bonbon as well as a mouthwatering selection of cakes and candied fruits – take out or eat in. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 9am–5pm.
Spanjer & van Twist Leliegracht 60. Hip café-bar with an arty air and brisk modern fittings. Tasty snacks and light meals plus an outdoor terrace right on the canal. Lunch served daily 10am–4pm, evening meals from 6pm.
Van Harte Hartenstraat 24. Crowded and cheerful spot for lunch, dinner and drinks with tasty sandwiches, a large tea selection, home-made pies and bonbons from Pompadour. The Mediterranean-inspired mains go for around €18. Mon 10am–5.30pm, Tues–Sat 10am–midnight, Sun 11am–7pm.
Eating and drinking | Cafés and tearooms |
Grachtengordel south
Bagels & Beans Keizersgracht 504. Bagel specialists, with all sorts of imaginative fillings, attracting a young clientele; their version of strawberries and cream cheese is a big favourite in the summer. The “Beans” part of the name refers to the coffee you can have with your bagel. There are also several other branches, including one in De Pijp (see "The outer districts"). This one is open Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm.
Café Americain American Hotel, Leidseplein 28. There was a time when this café was the trendiest spot in the city, attracting – at one time or another – artists, poets and TV folk. Nowadays, things are much more routine, even canteen-like, but the fanciful Art Nouveau decor, coordinated down to the doorknobs, has survived intact and makes a visit worthwhile(ish). Daily 7am–10pm.
Metz Leidsestraat 34. Pleasantly appointed café on the top floor of the Metz department store, offering panoramic views over the city centre. Asian food is the big deal here, but there are also salads and sandwiches; mains average €11. Mon 11am–6pm, Tues–Sat 9.30am–6pm & Sun noon–5pm.
Panini Vijzelgracht 3. Formica may be a thing of the past almost everywhere else, but not here, giving this split-level, Italian café-cum-restaurant a vaguely beatnik air. Great coffee, sandwiches, pastas and snacks during the day; reasonably priced meat, fish and pasta dishes at night. Mon–Sat 9.30am–11pm, Sun 11.30am–11pm.
Stacey’s Pennywell Herengracht 558 020/624 4111. Very stylish split-level café with a tile-covered bar, brassy chandeliers and comfortable lounge sofas. Inventive sandwiches make up the lunch menu; the small but well-balanced dinner menu offers main dishes like Ostrich steak or rack of lamb for around €18. Mon 9am–5pm, Tues–Sat 9.30am–10.30pm, Sun 9.30am–10.30pm.
Eating and drinking | Cafés and tearooms |
The Jordaan and Western docklands
Arnold Cornelis Elandsgracht 78. Long-established confectioner and patisserie with a mouthwatering display of pastries and cakes. Take away or eat in the snug tearoom out back. Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm, Sat 8.30am–5pm.
Festina Lente Looiersgracht 40b. Relaxed, neighbourhood café-bar with mismatched furniture and armchairs to laze in. The outside tables overlooking the canal are a suntrap in the summer when the locals come out to relax with friends for the afternoon; inside is cosy in the winter, and has a good selection of board games. As for the cons: service at the weekend can be slow. Mon noon–1am, Tues–Fri 10.30am–1/3am, Sat 11am–3am, Sun noon–1am.
Il Tramezzino Haarlemmerstraat 79. Richly filled sandwiches (€2.95) according to the old Venetian recipe, to be washed down with a superb espresso, ristretto or cappuccino in an up-to-the-minute setting. Mon & Tues–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9.30am–5pm.
Eating and drinking | Cafés and tearooms |
The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands
Blijburg aan Zee Bert Haanstrakade 2004 www.blijburg.nl. Last stop of tram #26 from CS. Amsterdam’s city beach itself, situated on the IJsselmeer,