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Amsterdam (Rough Guide) - Martin Dunford [155]

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in Nepal and India. The Tibet Support Group (020/623 7699) can give travel advice and information on Tibetan restaurants in Holland and anything else concerned with Tibet. Mon 1–6pm, Tues–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 1–5pm.

Tikal Hartenstraat 2a (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 2147. Colourful textiles and jewellery from Mexico and Guatemala. Mon 1–6pm, Tues–Fri 11am–6pm, Sat 11am–5.30pm.

Witte Tandenwinkel Runstraat 5 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 3443. The “White Teeth Shop” sells wacky toothbrushes and just about every dental hygiene accoutrement you could ever need – and then some. Mon 1–5.30pm, Tues–Fri 10am–5.30pm, Sat 10am–5pm.

Wonderwood Rusland 3 (Old Centre) 020/625 3738, www.wonderwood.nl. Claims to be a cross between a shop and a gallery, and it certainly is a good place to browse, packed as it is with vintage furniture designs in wood from the 1940s to the 1960s – as well as its own creations based on the classics. Wed–Sat noon–6pm.

Shopping | Shops |

Markets

Albert Cuypmarkt Albert Cuypstraat (De Pijp, Outer districts). The city’s principal general goods and food market, with some great bargains to be had – including fashionwear and shoes. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm.

Albert Cuypmarkt

Amstelveld Prinsengracht, near Utrechtsestraat (Grachtengordel south). This market sells flowers and plants, but with much less of a scrum than the Bloemenmarkt. Mon 10am–3pm.

Artplein Spui (Old Centre). Low-key but high-quality art market, with much lower prices than you’ll find in the galleries; prints and occasional books as well. March–Dec Sun 10am–6pm.

Bloemenmarkt Singel, between Koningsplein and Muntplein (Grachtengordel south). Flowers and plants, ostensibly for tourists, but regularly frequented by locals. Bulbs for export (with health certificate). Some stalls open on Sunday as well. Mon–Sat 9am–5.30pm.

Boerenmarkt Noordermarkt, next to the Noorderkerk (Jordaan and Western docklands). Organic farmers’ market selling all kinds of produce, including amazing fresh breads, exotic fungi, fresh herbs and home-made mustards. Sat 9am–4pm.

Kunstmarkt Thorbeckeplein, south of Rembrandtplein (Grachtengordel south). Quality art market with more reasonable prices than you’ll find in the galleries; vintage books too. March–Oct Sun 9am–5pm.

Lindengracht Lindengracht, south of Brouwersgracht (Jordaan and Western docklands). Rowdy and raucous general household supplies market, a complete switch from the gentility of the neighbouring Boerenmarkt. Sat 9am–5pm.

Noordermarkt Noordermarkt, next to the Noorderkerk (Jordaan and Western docklands). Junk-lover’s gold mine, full of all kinds of bargains tucked away beneath piles of useless rubbish. Get there early. Mon 9am–2pm.

Waterlooplein Waterlooplein, behind the Stadhuis (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands). A real Amsterdam institution, and the city’s best flea market by far. Sprawling and chaotic, it’s the final resting place for many a pair of yellow corduroy flares; but there are more wearable clothes to be found too, and some wonderful antique/junk stalls to root through. Some secondhand vinyl available. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm.

Westermarkt Westerstraat, from the Noorderkerk onwards (Jordaan and Western docklands). Another general goods market, though the emphasis here is on fabrics and textiles, roll after roll of the stuff. Very popular with the Jordaan locals. Mon 8am–1pm.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam

In keeping with the Dutch reputation for tolerance, no other city in Europe accepts gay people quite as readily as Amsterdam, a liberalism that is displayed publicly at all gay events and festivals organized throughout the year: Amsterdam Pride is a huge occasion on the gay calendar, as is Queen’s Day and the many memorial events that take place around the Homomonument(see "Westermarkt"). Furthermore, with the Dutch willingness to speak English, French and just about any other language, and with a good network of advice centres, bars, clubs and cinemas, Amsterdam has become a magnet for the international gay scene. That said, a worrying recent development is an increase in the number of reports

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