An Invitation to Indian Cooking - Madhur Jaffrey [23]
Pyazwala khare masale ka gosht (meat with whole spices and onions)
SERVES 4–6
When I was a student in London and had written home begging my mother to teach me how to cook, one of the earliest letters I received from her was dated 9 March 1956, and said, “I received your letter. I am glad to know you have gained weight. I miss you and cannot wait to see you in your new ‘plump’ state. Your younger sister is supposed to be studying for her exams and your father has even given up his room for her, but she spends all her time reading novels. Here is the recipe for the Khare Masale Ka Gosht that you asked for. Write and tell me how it works out.…”It worked out very well!
Here it is. It’s very much like the preceding recipe, with the addition of onions, ginger, and cumin seeds, and it has one extra step.
2 pounds boneless meat from shoulder of lamb, with extra fat removed, cut into 1–1½ inch cubes
4 onions
9 tablespoons vegetable oil
10 whole cardamom pods
4 whole large black cardamom pods (if available)
6–7 bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole cumin seed
3–4 whole hot dried red peppers (optional)
5 whole black peppercorns
1 piece fresh ginger, 1½ inches by 1½ inches, peeled and minced or grated
1–1½ teaspoon salt (according to taste)
Prepare all the ingredients first. Pat dry the meat pieces thoroughly with paper towel. Peel the onions, cut them in half, then slice in very thin half-circles.
Heat the oil in a 10–12-inch heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. When it is very hot, put in the onions. Fry, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes or until the onions are a darkish brown and crisp, but not burned and black. Lift out the onions with slotted spoon, taking care that the fat drains back into the cooking pot first. Spread the onions on paper towels, and leave uncovered.
In the same pot, put in the small and large cardamoms, bay leaves, cumin, red peppers, peppercorns, and finally the ginger. Stir for a minute until bay leaves turn dark and ginger sizzles awhile. Now add the wiped meat and the salt.
Stir for about 5 minutes or until the pot begins to make boiling noises. Cover, lower heat, and simmer very gently for 1 hour and 10 minutes or until meat is tender.
Take cover off, add onions, and let the meat cook over medium heat a final 3 to 5 minutes, stirring gently. Take care not to break the meat. All extra liquid should be boiled away, and the meat should look a nice brown and have no sauce other than what is clinging to it and the fat left in the pan.
To serve: See suggestions for preceding recipe.
Kheema (ground meat)
SERVES 6
This is the first Indian dish all Indian students abroad learn to make. It can be cooked plain or with potatoes, peas, or mushrooms.
2 medium-sized onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 piece fresh ginger, 2 inches long and 1 inch wide, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 stick cinnamon, about 2 inches long
4 whole cloves
4 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1–2 hot red peppers to taste (optional)
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 large canned tomato or 2 small ones, coarsely chopped
2 pounds finely ground chuck, or ground lamb
¾–1 teaspoon salt (or to taste)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Place chopped onions, garlic, and ginger in blender with 3 tablespoons water and blend to smooth paste (1 minute). Set aside.
Heat oil in a 10–12-inch skillet over medium heat. When hot, add cinnamon stick, cloves, black peppercorns, bay leaf, and last the red peppers. In about 10 seconds, when the peppers turn dark, add paste from blender, keeping your face averted. Fry for about 10 minutes, adding a sprinkling of water if the food sticks to the bottom. Add the coriander, cumin, and turmeric, and fry another 5 minutes. Now put the chopped tomato in, fry for another 2 to 3 minutes, and add