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By Root 326 0

my very own concoction and unlikely to be served in any Indian home other than mine. Indians almost never use celery in their cooking. Nor do they often use soy sauce, though I must say that in the major cities the influence of an overcooked version of Chinese cuisine is certainly making itself felt. This recipe acknowledges its debt to that cuisine, but tastes, in the last analysis, rather Indian. The dish is simple to make and quite delicious. The recipe here serves 2 people (2 chops each). If you wish to serve 4, just double the ingredients.

4 pork chops (loin or rib)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 bay leaves

1 hot dried red pepper (optional)

8 whole cloves

1 large celery rib, diced

1 medium-sized onion, coarsely chopped

A piece of fresh ginger, 1 inch long and ½ inch wide, sliced into 3 rounds

2 cloves garlic, peeled

⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon ground mace

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1½ teaspoons granulated sugar

½ lemon

Try to get pork chops that are evenly cut, so that they may brown evenly. Pat the chops dry and trim all but ¼ inch of the fat. Place them in a large skillet and turn heat on high. The chops should brown in their own fat. When they are a golden color on both sides (press down areas that refuse to touch the skillet), remove them from skillet and place in bowl or plate. Turn off the heat and pour off only the accumulated fat in the skillet.

Heat the vegetable oil along with the coagulated juices in the same skillet over a medium flame, and put in the bay leaves, red pepper, and cloves. Stir. When the bay leaves change color (this should take a few seconds) add celery, onions, ginger, and garlic. Stirring, fry over medium flame for 4 to 5 minutes or until everything is slightly browned. Add the browned pork chops, cinnamon, mace, soy sauce, sugar, and ¼ cup water. Cut the lemon into 4 round slices (skin and all—remove pits though) and place over chops. Bring to boil. Cover, lower heat, and simmer gently 50 minutes to 1 hour or until tender. Turn and mix gently every 10 to 15 minutes.

To serve: Place contents of skillet on platter and serve with Plain Basmati Rice and a green salad. A yogurt type of relish would be a good side dish. If you like you can remove the pieces of ginger and garlic before you serve.

Sweetbreads with Chinese parsley

SERVES 6

If you like sweetbreads, you will enjoy this dish. I happen to love it, but my children are nearly always reduced to remarks like “1 like it, but I don’t want it”—remarks which I counteract by drawing my eyebrows close together and staring at the wall in a hurt kind of way. This induces some polite nibbling which I try to make easier by saying, “It’s good for you.” My mother did the same kind of thing to me, so I see no reason to break tradition. Here is my recipe for sweetbreads. Try it. It’s good for you!

2 pounds sweetbreads

2 medium-sized onions

4 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped

A piece of fresh ginger, 2½ inches long and 1 inch wide, peeled and coarsely chopped

5 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 hot green chili, finely sliced (more or less as desired), or ⅛–½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (as desired)

4 tablespoons chopped Chinese parsley (coriander greens or cilantro)

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tablespoons tomato sauce (canned)

2 tablespoons plain yogurt

1¾ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons white vinegar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Soak the sweetbreads in ice water for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, peel the onions. Slice one into fine rings and halve the rings. Set aside. Chop the other onion coarsely.

Put the chopped onion, garlic, and ginger in container of electric blender, add 3 tablespoons of water, and blend at high speed until you have a smooth paste (about 1 minute). Leave in container.

Heat the oil in a 10–12-inch skillet over medium heat. When hot, put in the halved onion rings and fry them, stirring, for about 5 minutes until they are crisp, dark brown, but not burned. With a slotted spoon, remove them and spread on paper towels.

Pour the paste from blender