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An Invitation to Indian Cooking - Madhur Jaffrey [89]

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rice, half the meat, then the second cup of rice, and the rest of the meat. Measure the flavored broth; pour 3½ cups of it over the rice. If you have less (you shouldn’t), add a little water. Put in 1 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Cover, turn flame very, very low, and leave for 20 minutes. Lift cover and stir gently with a fork; cover again and cook another 20 minutes until rice is done. (If upper layer is still uncooked, stir gently with a fork, cover again, and cook 10 minutes longer.) Turn heat off and leave covered on stove until ready to serve.

To serve: Arrange the pullao on a large platter. Crumble the browned onions and sprinkle all over rice. Serve with plain yogurt or Yogurt with Potatoes. Also serve a vegetable—perhaps a cauliflower dish—and a salad (tomato, onion, and cucumber salad).

Remember that this rice dish will stay hot for 20 to 25 minutes after it is cooked if you leave it covered on the stove. Also, after the rice is cooked, it is best to give the steam 5 to 10 minutes to settle before you serve.

Fried onion rings for garnishing


Vegetable oil, enough to have at least 1 inch in pan

1 medium-sized onion

Heat oil in small skillet over medium heat. Peel onion and slice very finely. Wipe onion rings with paper towels and drop into heated fat. As they fry, separate rings with slotted spoon. Fry until rich brown (they should be a rich dark brown without being burned!). Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. (This can be done ahead of time and the garnish left uncovered in a saucer.) Arrange onion rings over rice or meats.

Lentils

Frozen black-eyed peas (lobhia)

Chana masaledar

Canned chickpeas with garlic and ginger

Moong dal

Kala chana aur aloo (black chickpeas with potatoes)

Masoor or arhar dal with vegetables

Cold chana dal with potatoes

Hot chana dal with potatoes

Chana dal cooked with lamb

Karhi

Tomato karhi

Whole unhulled urad and rajma dal

Baris (or vadees) with eggplant and potatoes

SEE ALSO:

Dal soup

als—lentils or pulses—are varieties of dried beans and peas. In some form or other they are eaten daily in almost every Indian home, frequently providing the poor with their only source of protein. While people in England and America speak of making their living as earning their “bread and butter,” Indians who earn a bare wage complain that they make just enough for their “dal roti” (roti is bread).

Both the rice eaters and the wheat eaters of India consume dal with equal enthusiasm. Each state, however, cooks its dals in a completely different way. Punjab excels in whole, unhulled dals—whole urad and rajma cooked slowly in the clay oven (tandoor), as well as in chana bhatura, a spicy dish of chickpeas eaten with puffy deep-fried bread. The fussy Delhi-wallahs like the hulled and split moong dal, delicately spiced with cumin and sprinkled with lime juice and browned onions. In Bombay, a hot, sweet and sour toovar dal is made by the addition of tamarind paste and jaggery (a dry, lump variety of molasses) to the cooked dal. In Madras, the scorchingly spicy dal often contains vegetables—eggplant, okra, or tomatoes.

In America and England, where a very thin, liquidlike dal is often served in Indian and Pakistani restaurants, people have come to the conclusion that dal is a soup. Well, it isn’t; one of North India’s favorite expressions, “Dey dal may pani” (put water in the dal), refers to foods that are diluted in order to stretch them out among more people, a practice which is, naturally, deplored. A well-cooked dal is generally quite thick. It is hard to describe the exact consistency: it is thinner than a cooked cereal, but not quite as thin as pea soup. Having made that generalization, let me add that in some dal recipes the grains stay dry and almost whole, while in others, particularly some cooked in southern India, the dal is indeed quite soupy.

Dal is always eaten with rice or Indian breads. It can be poured over rice, especially when it is thin, or placed beside the rice, or half can be poured over the rice and the rest beside it on the plate.

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