Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [0]
Photographs copyright © 2011 by Sara Remington
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
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Excerpt from The Philosophy of Andy Warhol: From A to B and Back Again copyright © 1975 by Andy Warhol, reprinted in the United States and its territories by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, outside of the United States by permission of Penguin Books Ltd., and reprinted electronically by permission of The Wylie Agency LLC.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Speck, Maria.
Ancient grains for modern meals : Mediterranean whole grain recipes for barley, farro, kamut, polenta, wheat berries & more / Maria Speck.
p. cm.
Summary: “A whole-grain cookbook featuring well-balanced and wholesome recipes inspired by the Mediterranean cuisines of Greece, southern France, Italy, and Turkey”—Provided by publisher. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-1-58008-354-6 (hardback)
1. Cooking (Cereals) 2. Grain. 3. Cooking, Mediterranean. 4. Cookbooks. I. Title.
TX808.S665 2011
641.59822—dc22
2010045867
eISBN: 978-0-307-58736-7
Food styling by Katie Christ
Prop styling by Nyssa Quanstrom
v3.1
CONTENTS
Acknowledgments
Introduction: The Glamour of Whole Grains
MUSINGS ON HEALTH, DIETING, AND GOOD EATING • THE WHOLE GRAINS ON MY TABLE • KITCHEN BASICS FOR WHOLE GRAINS • BAKING BASICS FOR WHOLE GRAIN FLOURS • EQUIPMENT • INGREDIENTS
CHAPTER 1 BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, & BREADS
CHAPTER 2 SALADS & SIDES
CHAPTER 3 SOUPS & STEWS
CHAPTER 4 BURGERS, SAVORY CAKES, & MORE
CHAPTER 5 PASTA
CHAPTER 6 MODERN MAINS
CHAPTER 7 SWEET ENDINGS
Sources
Bibliography
Index
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
THIS BOOK GREW OUT OF A BRIOCHE. Actually, it was a plate of butter-rich whole wheat brioches, ever so slightly sweet and risen slowly overnight. I had baked these soft, chewy beauties for Sunday brunch with friends almost exactly ten years ago, another one of my many efforts to transform the world into one planet of whole grain lovers. Our friend Isabel Bradburn soon raved about James Beard, the American icon and a name I had never heard before, and popped the life-changing question: “Why don’t you write a cookbook?” To which I replied, “What?”
At the time, I was a foreign journalist, covering technology and society stories for German magazines. English was my third language, after my native German and Greek. And I had never published in the United States. Forget about any expertise in food writing. Well, little did I know that indeed I would write a cookbook one day, and how hard it would be.
Professionally, many people helped along the way. First, my editor at Germany’s Stern magazine, Bert Gamerschlag, who supported my midcareer change to a budding food writer from the day I started pitching stories to him. In the United States, Darra Goldstein gave me the opportunity to write about my lifelong passion for whole grains in a piece for Gastronomica. Equally, Jim Oseland, in his unpretentious way, welcomed a piece on whole wheat German Pfeffernüsse cookies in Saveur. Both stories paved the way to a newfound love of writing in English that surprised even me. And Toni Allegra invited me to speak at, and later to occasionally host, the IACP-Teleforum, a national phone conference for food writers.
For this book, Rachel Laudan shared her knowledge on polenta’s historical uses, and introduced me to the unforgettable term nixtamalization. Anne Willan answered questions about whole grains with her signature friendliness—despite the fact that we had never met before. Elizabeth Andoh helped with thoughtful advice on recipe testing. For lively exchanges on many matters of food, I thank Paula Wolfert, Grace Young, CiCi Williamson, and food writer extraordinaire David Leite. Roberta Dowling, founder of the Cambridge School