Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [105]
Roast Chicken with Orange, Lavender, and Thyme
The simple beauty of a juicy roast chicken sparks a primordial craving in many people, myself included—that is why you find it in this cookbook. There are no whole grains in this recipe (except any grains the chicken was raised on). I make up for this by including whole grain pairings to whet your appetite. When busy, I serve tangy Orange and Lemon Couscous with the bird. Otherwise, I make the Barley with Crisped Prosciutto and Truffle Oil and combine it with the lemon variation of this recipe below.
Remember to plan ahead: the chicken needs to chill with an herbal salt coating for at least 4 hours—the longer the better—for crisp skin and flavorful meat. If you don’t have a broiler pan and a V-rack, crumple a long piece of aluminum foil (about 6 feet), twist it firmly into a long snake, and roll it up into a coil. Set the coil in the center of a baking sheet, and place the chicken on top. Bake as directed, increasing the oven temperature to 475°F. SERVES 4
1 large orange
2¼ teaspoons fine sea salt
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried lavender buds
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 (3½- to 4-pound) chicken, preferably organic, giblets removed
1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 First, make the herbal salt. Finely grate the zest of the orange. Cut the orange in half and reserve one half for another use. Cut the other half into 2 pieces and set aside. Combine the zest, 2 teaspoons of the salt, the thyme, lavender, and pepper in a small bowl. Set the herbal salt aside.
2 Place a V-rack atop a broiler drip pan with its slotted cover. Pat the chicken dry and trim any excess fat. Rub some of the herbal salt over the skin and inside the cavity. Using your fingers, gently loosen the skin from the breast meat and both thighs to create pockets so you can spread some of the herbal salt there as well. Put the 2 orange quarters inside the cavity and close it with kitchen twine. Place the chicken in the V-rack and transfer the contraption to the fridge. Chill, uncovered, for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours.
3 About 2 hours before you would like to eat, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 450°F. Remove the chicken from the fridge and set aside for 30 minutes. Before you place the chicken in the oven, rub the olive oil across the skin and sprinkle with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Place the chicken in the V-rack, breast side up. Tie the legs together with kitchen twine and tuck the wing tips under the body.
4 Roast the chicken for 25 minutes. Remove and turn it breast side down, using sturdy tongs. Continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer, inserted into the thickest part of the thigh, registers between 165°F and 170°F, about 20 to 25 more minutes, depending on the size. Loosely tent the chicken with aluminum foil and let it rest for 15 to 25 minutes before carving and serving.
TO VARY IT: Use the finely grated zest of 1 lemon instead of the orange zest, and place half a lemon inside the cavity.
Oat Pilaf with Chicken Livers, Marsala, and Sage
Comforting classics such as risottos and pilafs (or pilaus) are typically made with different kinds of rice. But whole grains such as farro or barley are delicious stand-ins. Here you can try one of my favorites, toasty-sweet whole oat berries, better known by their raspy name “oat groats.” Allow about an hour from start to finish for this pilaf to come together; it’s worth the wait. Serve with sautéed chard or collard greens. Avoid crowding the pan when cooking chicken livers. They will steam