Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [107]
In this risotto, I don’t use the clam juice, as its gray color dulls the bright orange hue of the dish. And never rinse rice being used for risotto, as doing so will wash out the starch. It is the starch that contributes the heavenly creaminess of a classic Italian risotto. SERVES 4
RISOTTO
2½ cups low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth
1 piece of Parmesan cheese rind, a 1 by 2-inch chunk (optional)
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 pounds littleneck clams (about 25 clams)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
⅓ cup minced shallot (about 1 medium)
1 clove garlic, lightly crushed
½ teaspoon saffron threads
About 4 cups parboiled short-grain brown rice (1½ cups uncooked)
1 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
TO FINISH
7 ounces frozen peas (do not thaw; about 1½ cups)
2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
1 ounce or more finely grated Parmesan cheese (about ½ cup)
1½ teaspoons unsalted butter
¼ teaspoon or more freshly ground white pepper
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 First, prepare the broth for the risotto. Bring the broth to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the cheese rind and stir in the salt. Cover and decrease the heat to maintain a simmer while you make the risotto. Have a 2-cup liquid measure ready.
2 Clean the clams. Discard any chipped, broken, or open clams and soak the rest in a large bowl of cold water for about 20 minutes. This enables the clams to clear out sand and salt from inside their shells.
3 Meanwhile, make the risotto. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the shallot, garlic, and saffron and cook, stirring frequently, until the shallot softens, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring vigorously, until the kernels are coated with oil and look shiny, 1 to 2 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and add ¾ cup of the wine. Cook, stirring and scraping the bottom, until the wine turns syrupy and is almost absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes.
4 Measure and add 1¼ cups of the broth all at once, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon, and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to maintain a gentle bubble, cover, and cook until much of the liquid is absorbed, 10 to 12 minutes, giving it another good stir about halfway. Add ½ cup more broth, stir vigorously again, cover, and cook at a gentle bubble for 5 more minutes, stirring once halfway. At this point, test for doneness. The risotto should be slightly soupy and creamy, and the kernels tender but still slightly chewy. If not, add a bit more broth (you may not need all of it), stir, and cook for a few more minutes.
5 While the risotto cooks, finish preparing the clams. Lift them out of the bowl with your hands (don’t drain them) so the sand stays at the bottom. Scrub the clams under cold running water to remove any sand and grit on the outside. To cook the clams, bring the remaining ¼ cup wine just to a boil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the clams, ideally in a single layer; cover and steam until they open, 3 to 5 minutes, shaking the pot once halfway. Transfer the clams using a slotted spoon to a large plate, and discard any that haven’t opened. Cover the clams loosely with aluminum foil to keep them warm. (You can save the clam juices for another use.)
6 To finish, stir the peas and cream into the risotto, cover, and cook on low until the peas are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the cheese, butter, white pepper, and salt. Taste for salt and white pepper and adjust. Serve in deep plates and divide the clams on top of each serving (5 or 6 per plate). Garnish with a bit of parsley, grind in more white pepper if you like, and pass more Parmesan around.
Caramelized