Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [15]
WHEN YOU SHOP Farro sold in the United States is typically of the emmer variety and often semi-pearled, retaining some but not all of the bran and nutrients (on packages imported from Italy, you might read semi-perlato). Thus, my recipes have been written for this type of farro: it cooks up fast, in 20 to 25 minutes, and it enables you to enjoy the grain’s alluring texture and aroma with hints of cinnamon. Once you appreciate this new grain on your plate, feel free to “upgrade” to the real deal, deliciously plump and chewy whole grain farro. Farmers have started to grow this ancient grain in the United States, and it is worth your time and effort to track it down. There are different kinds of whole grain farro available; some cook up fast, such as farro piccolo, while others are best soaked ahead, and simmered from anything between 35 to 70 minutes (for sources). If you can’t tell from the package whether you have refined or whole grain farro in front of you, fiber content, a close look at the kernels, and some experience will help you distinguish whether you have a whole or a pearled kernel in front of you (see also, the “When you shop” section under “Barley”).
KAMUT
KAMUT Kamut has stunningly large, almost bronze-colored grain kernels and a rich, buttery flavor. This ancient wheat variety is properly called khorasan and is commercially sold under the trademarked name Kamut. In the United States, it was first cultivated in Montana about sixty years ago, and has become more widely available only in the past twenty years. The grain, which is still grown in Egypt and in small plots in Turkey, has never been hybridized. Its trademark certifies that all Kamut is grown organically.
Compared to modern-day wheat, Kamut is higher in protein and certain minerals such as selenium. Stories abound that Kamut was found in an ancient Egyptian tomb, and that its seeds were miraculously replanted in modern days—these stories are, well, just good stories.
SPELT The ancient wheat species spelt, probably a hybrid of emmer and bread wheat, was widely cultivated in parts of Europe during the Bronze Age. With its tough outer hull, it has a natural resistance to pests, but it is not easy to harvest—and hence was replaced by higher-yielding wheat varieties in the twentieth century. Until that time, spelt was a popular staple in Switzerland, Austria, and Germany, as well as in France and Spain. In Germany, spelt is called Dinkel—the town of Dinkelsbühl is named after the grain.
The German mystic and Benedictine abbess Hildegard von Bingen (1098–1179) considered spelt the best of all grains and recommended it for its healing properties. Germans also cultivate Grünkern, literally, “green kernel.” This is spelt harvested early, before it is fully ripened, then roasted. It has a strong and brothy, almost meaty, flavor which is cherished by many. It is traditionally used in grain cakes, soups, and pasta.
Spelt, a high-protein grain with a reddish hue, has a mild natural sweetness and is thus a great introduction to the wheat family.
SPELT FLOUR Spelt flour has seen a revival across many parts of Europe. Lately, it has also become more widely available in the United States. Always look for whole grain spelt flour for the recipes in this book. The flour has an attractive mildness and is very easy to work with. I like using it not only in pizzas and flatbreads, but also in cakes and cookies.
WILD RICE
Wild rice is the seed of an aquatic grass native to North America. While the plant is not a grain, it is closely related to true rice, which is also a grass. Varieties of wild rice grow naturally in isolated lakes and riverbeds, especially in the Great