Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [26]
STOCK OR BROTH
If you don’t make your own stock or broth (I rarely do), finding a good-quality product with appealing flavor is not easy. You have to try different brands to choose a favorite. Plus, certain store-bought products can slow down the cooking of grains because of their high salt content. As a result, I either cook grains in water, sometimes combined with herbs and spices, or I use half broth and half water, which has the additional advantage of not overpowering the subtle flavors of the grains.
SUGAR
Despite my passion for natural and unrefined ingredients, I continue to use regular granulated sugar, especially in baked goods. It lends an irresistible crispness to certain treats such as whole grain cookies, which I don’t want to miss. I use it when sweeteners such as honey or agave syrup don’t produce a desirable outcome.
In baking, I often add turbinado sugar, also called raw sugar, which has become more widely available in recent years. Less refined than regular granulated sugar, it yields from pressing sugarcane to extract its juice. The juice is then heated and spun to retain the characteristic coarse crystals. Turbinado’s distinct caramel aroma pairs especially well with the nutty flavors of whole grain flours; plus turbinado sugar adds moisture, which is a benefit when baking with whole grain flours.
YOGURT AND GREEK YOGURT
In this book, Greek yogurt, sometimes also called Greek-style yogurt, always refers to strained yogurt. To my infinite joy, it has become widely available across the United States. Some markets now even offer organic versions. For best flavor, I prefer rich and creamy, plain whole-milk Greek yogurt. In my recipes, I almost always offer you ways to lighten up the recipe by using lower-fat versions.
If you can’t find Greek yogurt, make your own. It’s easy: line a sieve with a double layer of paper towels and set it over a bowl. Spoon 1 quart plain yogurt into the sieve. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the fridge to drain for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours. Spoon the strained yogurt into a bowl, carefully removing the paper towels, and beat with a fork until smooth. You will have a scant 2½ cups.
As for regular yogurt, my first choice is a creamy plain whole-milk yogurt, which can be spooned over many a dish. This is how yogurt is often served in Turkey and the Middle East. It brings cool creaminess to hot meals in hot climates. Trader Joe’s carries my favorite, its own plain European-style whole-milk yogurt, which is finger-licking good. And if your travel ever takes you to Greece, be sure to look for rich sheep’s milk yogurt sold in old-fashioned clay containers like in the days of yore. This, of course, is the best yogurt in the whole wide world.
HOW TO TOAST NUTS
I toast small amounts of nuts in a medium or large skillet, depending on the quantity. For large amounts (more than 1 cup for most nuts, ½ cup for sesame seeds) I prefer to use the oven. To save energy, I try to do this on days when I’m already heating the oven for baking.
You can toast your nuts lightly, just to enhance flavor, or to a lively golden brown. This is a personal choice. Do as you like, but always keep a close eye because nuts can burn fast.
To toast whole nuts and seeds on the stove top, place a heavy skillet with the nuts over medium heat. Cook the nuts until fragrant, stirring or shaking the skillet a few times and following the times given below as a guideline. Watch closely and move the nuts more often as the skillet gets hotter, so they don’t burn. With the exception of hazelnuts, immediately transfer the toasted nuts to a plate to cool before using them in a recipe.
• Almonds: 6 to 8 minutes.
• Hazelnuts: 5 to 7 minutes, until they become fragrant and the skin is charred in spots. Immediately transfer to a clean dish towel, fold the towel over the nuts, and rub until the loose skin comes off. Discard the skin, and allow the nuts to cool.
• Pine nuts: about 3 minutes.
• Pistachios: about 3 minutes.
• Sesame seeds: about