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Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [35]

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white whole wheat flour (2¼ ounces)

2 tablespoons sugar

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

1½ cups lowfat buttermilk

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

CHERRY SAUCE, AND TO FINISH

2 cups sweet pitted cherries (about 10 ounces; do not thaw if using frozen)

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon water

¼ cup honey

2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

3 whole cloves

2 teaspoons cornstarch

SEE MEASURING WHOLE GRAIN FLOUR

1 To prepare the pancakes, whisk together the cornmeal, whole wheat flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. In a medium bowl, whisk the buttermilk, eggs, and olive oil to blend. Pour the buttermilk mixture over the dry ingredients and stir with a spatula or wooden spoon until just combined. Do not overmix; a number of small lumps should remain. Allow the batter to sit for 10 minutes.

2 Place a large baking sheet on the center rack of the oven and preheat to 200°F.

3 Meanwhile, prepare the cherry sauce. Combine the cherries, ¼ cup of the water, and the honey, orange zest, and cloves in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat, cover partially, and set aside for flavors to meld.

4 To make the pancakes, heat a large cast-iron skillet or a griddle over medium heat. Lightly grease the pan. When a drop of water sizzles and briskly evaporates on the surface, add ¼ cup batter per pancake, leaving some space in between so you can flip them. Cook until the edges of the pancakes start to look dry and the bottoms turn golden brown, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook until golden, about 1 minute. Decrease the heat a tad if the pancakes brown too quickly. Transfer to the baking sheet in the oven to keep warm. Do not stack. Continue until all the batter is used, greasing the pan lightly in between as necessary.

5 To finish the cherry sauce, combine the cornstarch and the remaining 1 tablespoon water in a small bowl. Add to the saucepan with the cherries and return to a boil over medium-high, stirring gently so you don’t crush the fruit. Cook until the mixture thickens slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve right away.

TO GET A HEAD START: The sauce can be prepared, as in step 3 and 5, up to 3 days ahead. Chill, covered. Gently reheat, without much stirring.

Date-Apricot Muffins with Anise

At least a dozen jars of dried fruits and nuts line the shelves in my kitchen at all times. These muffins rely on a time-tested trio, steeped in the culinary heritage of the Middle East, of dates, dried apricots, and pistachios. Enjoy these chewy muffins on their own, or with orange marmalade and butter. In the mood to splurge? Dish them up for brunch with Brandied Apricot Butter (see sidebar).

Chopped dates will often stick together in one big chunk. Separate the pieces by tossing them with 1 teaspoon of additional sugar before you add them to the batter. MAKES 12 MUFFINS

MUFFINS

2 cups white whole wheat flour (8½ ounces)

¼ cup sugar

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground anise seeds, preferably freshly ground

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

½ cup chopped dried dates

¼ cup chopped dried apricots

3 large eggs, at room temperature ½ cup honey

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¾ cup freshly squeezed orange juice

2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

½ cup chopped unsalted toasted pistachios

TOPPING

2 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon ground anise seeds

3 tablespoons finely chopped unsalted toasted pistachios see measuring whole grain flour,

SEE MEASURING WHOLE GRAIN FLOUR

1 Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F. Lightly butter a standard-size 12-cup muffin pan, preferably nonstick, or coat with cooking spray.

2 To make the muffins, whisk together the white whole wheat flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, anise seeds, and salt in a large bowl. Scatter the dates and apricots on top and toss to combine. Make a well in the center. In a medium bowl, lightly whisk the eggs to blend. Whisk in

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