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Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [38]

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hands and give the dough 4 to 6 gentle turns inside the bowl.

4 Cut the dough in half and transfer to a lightly floured work surface. Pat each half into a 5-inch circle, about 1 inch thick. Using a long, sharp knife dipped in flour, cut each circle into 6 small wedges. Place the wedges 2 inches apart on the baking sheet. Brush the scones with cream and generously sprinkle with turbinado sugar.

5 Bake until the scones are golden with brown edges and firm to the touch, rotating the baking sheet halfway through, 16 to 18 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool a bit. Eat warm or at room temperature.

6 While the scones cool, prepare the whipped cream: using an electric hand mixer at medium speed, whip the cream, sugar, and brandy until soft peaks form.

TO GET A HEAD START: You like to sleep in on the weekend? Prepare the scones the night before through step 3, cover with plastic wrap, and chill. Bake in a preheated oven straight from the fridge (they will need a few extra minutes to turn golden). Brandied whipped cream can be prepared up to 3 hours ahead. Chill, covered. The scones will freeze well for at least 1 month.

TO LIGHTEN IT UP: You can replace the cream with half-and-half for a less rich but still delicious scone.


ARE YOUR SCONES TOO DENSE?

Real British scones are quite different from many scones sold in the United States. Here scones are often sweeter, denser, and more cakelike, while British scones ideally turn out crumbly and light. To reach this consistency, it is crucial not to overwork the dough. When stirring and folding the liquids into the flour mixture (as in step 3), be sure to gather the dough briskly and to add just enough liquid for the dough to come together (the amount you need depends on the humidity as well as on the flour you use). Knead gently, not more than 10 seconds.

After baking, the most, tender scones will have a shaggy look, with cracks on top and slight bulges on the sides. Pastry chef Frank Tegethoff, of the King Arthur Flour Baker’s Hot Line, calls them gentle “curvatures.” Knead the dough more and the scones will not bake up with these cracks and bulges, but this neater appearance comes at a price: less tender scones. You choose!

Lemon-Rosemary Scones

If I had to choose between rosemary and lemon, I don’t think I could. I can’t imagine living without either of them, so I combine them often. These scones are quick to make, and ever so slightly and deliciously tangy because of the addition of sour cream. Serve with orange marmalade and butter, or accompanied by lightly sweetened Greek yogurt. MAKES 8 SCONES

1 cup white whole wheat flour (4¼ ounces)

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour (4 ounces)

¼ cup sugar, plus extra for sprinkling

1½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

5 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces

¾ cup sour cream

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

½ cup lowfat buttermilk, plus extra for brushing

SEE MEASURING WHOLE GRAIN FLOUR

1 Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425°F. Lightly butter a baking sheet or line with parchment paper.

2 Whisk together the whole wheat flour, whole wheat pastry flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Scatter the butter on top. Using a pastry blender or your fingers, quickly rub the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal with some uneven pebbles.

3 Using a fork, beat the sour cream, lemon zest, and rosemary in a small bowl to blend. Add to the flour mixture, stirring and folding until pebbly. Add almost all the buttermilk (reserving about 2 tablespoons) and gently bring a rough, patchy dough together with your hands. If a fair bit of flour remains, add just enough reserved buttermilk to gather the dough. Give the dough 4 to 6 gentle turns inside the bowl.

4 Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and pat into a 7-inch circle, about 1 inch thick. Using a long, sharp knife dipped in flour, cut into 8 wedges. Place the wedges 2 inches apart on the prepared

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