Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [4]
Bittersweet Koliva
In memory of my Greek papous and my German father
On one of the saddest days of my early childhood, I chewed on the best whole grain berries of my life. I was six years old, and my family had gathered at a cemetery in Thessaloniki to commemorate the recent death of my Greek grandfather, my papous. As is customary, everyone was handed a little white paper bag containing a traditional wheat berry concoction called koliva.
I completely forgot myself and the occasion, and blissfully dug into the mixture of cinnamon and cumin-scented grains, chewing on their succulent, starchy centers, interspersed with chunks of roasted walnuts and sugarcoated almonds—until the wailing of my mom and my grandma reached my ears. It was then that I realized that I shouldn’t show too much exhilaration over this celestial confection in the midst of such aching sadness. Yet my wheat berries became even sweeter.
I created this simple version of koliva, similar to my childhood treat, many years later, after my father died. SERVES 8
WHEAT BERRIES
2 cups water
1 cup soft whole wheat berries, soaked overnight and drained
KOLIVA
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground cumin
Pinch of fine sea salt
½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts
1 tablespoon whole wheat flour
½ cup dark raisins
2 tablespoons silver dragées (optional)
TO FINISH
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
¼ to ½ cup confectioners’ sugar
½ cup Jordan almonds, for garnish
1 To prepare the wheat berries, bring the water and the wheat berries to a boil in a medium saucepan. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the wheat berries are tender but still slightly chewy, 40 to 50 minutes. Drain in a sieve and allow to cool for 10 minutes.
2 Place a large dishcloth on a work surface. Spread the wheat berries across the middle section. Fold the sides over to cover the kernels and press lightly to remove any remaining moisture. Let sit for at least 1 hour to dry, and then transfer the wheat berries to a medium bowl.
3 To make the koliva, combine the cinnamon, cumin, and salt in a small bowl. Heat a heavy skillet, preferably cast-iron, over medium to medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the walnuts and toast them, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer the walnuts to a plate.
4 Add the whole wheat flour to the hot skillet and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the wheat berries and cook, stirring, until the kernels turn dry, about 2 minutes. Add the walnuts, raisins, and combined spices; cook until the mixture becomes fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Allow to cool for 1 hour, and then stir in the silver dragées.
5 When ready to serve, place a paper doily on a round decorative plate or a silver tray. Cut out a piece of waxed paper to cover the center of the doily and place it on top. Transfer the wheat berry mixture to the plate and pat into a mound with your hands.
6 To finish, sprinkle the mound with sesame seeds and sift a thick layer of confectioners’ sugar on top. Using the Jordan almonds, decorate it with a cross or with the initials of the deceased. Garnish the rim of the plate with the remaining Jordan almonds. To serve, spoon the mixture into small bowls.
Musings on Health, Dieting, and Good Eating
Almost every conversation about my passion for whole grains evokes this well-meaning remark: “Your diet must be very healthy.” This comment always leaves me speechless, because health is the last thing on my mind when I eat. Of course, we all want to eat and live in a healthy way. But the reality is that good intentions rarely last, even a day.
Today, I don’t try anymore. I have stopped dieting for good. Like most women and many men, I have