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2 ounces smoked bacon, chopped (about ½ cup)

3 cups whole wheat flour (12¾ ounces)

4 teaspoons baking powder

1¼ teaspoons fine sea salt

¾ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup finely chopped pitted black and green olives (about 20)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, or 2 teaspoons dried

1½ cups chilled lowfat buttermilk (12 ounces)

SEE MEASURING WHOLE GRAIN FLOUR

1 First, crisp the bacon. Line a plate with paper towels. Cook the bacon in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it is lightly browned and crisp at the edges, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon bits to the paper towel–lined plate to drain and let cool.

2 Whisk together the whole wheat flour, baking powder, salt, sugar, and pepper in a large bowl. Scatter the bacon, olives, and thyme across the flour mixture and stir in. Make a well in the center and add the buttermilk. Using a dough whisk or a fork, and starting from the center, gradually stir in the flour until most of it is incorporated (some flour may remain at the sides). Gather the moist dough inside the bowl with lightly floured hands (if the dough is wet, sprinkle it with flour). Incorporate any remaining flour and bring together, with 5 to 7 gentle turns, into a lumpy ball. Cover the bowl with a dish towel and set aside to rest for 15 minutes.

3 Meanwhile, position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Lightly grease a 9 by 5 by 3-inch loaf pan with olive oil, or coat with cooking spray.

4 Turn out the shaggy dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Lightly flour your hands and gently knead about 8 turns until smooth, while forming an oblong loaf about 7 inches long. Place the loaf, seam at the bottom, in the pan. Using a very sharp knife, make 2 diagonal cuts that cross in the center, ½ inch deep. Dust the loaf with flour, cover the pan with a dish towel, and let sit for 10 minutes.

5 Bake until the loaf is well risen, crusty, and nicely browned. A cake tester or a toothpick inserted into center should come out clean (an instant-read thermometer should register 200°F), about 55 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for 15 minutes. Cut with a sharp serrated knife and serve warm or at room temperature.

TO GET A HEAD START: Buy pitted olives, and if they are marinated, even better for flavor. This bread is best eaten on the same day, or you can reheat it in the toaster the next day. It freezes well for 1 month.

TO MAKE IT VEGETARIAN: Replace the bacon with ¼ cup sautéed red onions (about ¾ cup raw, chopped).

DECADENT CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT BUTTER

Europeans find it hard to resist the chocolate-hazelnut spread Nutella, which they slather on pretty much everything, from breakfast toast to crepes and cookies. Here is a scrumptious adult version with dark chocolate and a shot of rum. A jar of it makes a great holiday gift. Not as smooth as commercially made spread, it is reminiscent of the simple origins of this treat. And don’t hesitate to use good-quality milk chocolate for a change. This butter can be stored in the fridge for up to 10 days. It’s sinfully good when slathered on a slice of the Floating Sesame Loaf (below), especially the variation with raisins and hazelnuts. MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

½ cup toasted hazelnuts

2 tablespoons sugar

2 ounces good-quality dark chocolate with 70 percent cocoa content, finely chopped

½ cup heavy whipping cream

1 tablespoon dark rum or bourbon (optional)

1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 Place the nuts and the sugar in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Process until very fine, about 30 seconds.

2 Put the chocolate in a small bowl. Heat the cream in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium to medium-high heat until almost boiling (it will steam, and the small bubbles around the rim will become lively). Pour the cream over the chocolate and set aside for 5 minutes. Gently whisk until well blended, and then add the ground nut mixture, rum, and vanilla