Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [49]
Pumpernickel will keep at cool room temperature for 3 to 5 days. Wrap in a dish towel and store in a bread box, or place the wrapped loaf on a wooden board and cover with a turned-over bowl. Pumpernickel flour is a coarse whole grain rye flour (for sources). MAKES 1 (2¼‑POUND) LOAF
3½ cups pumpernickel flour (13 ounces)
1 cup whole wheat flour (4¼ ounces)
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
½ cup whole rye berries, soaked overnight and drained
2 cups lukewarm water (90°F to 100°F)
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons molasses, preferably blackstrap
SEE MEASURING WHOLE GRAIN FLOUR
1 Start 2 days ahead. Grease a 9 by 5 by 3-inch loaf pan with olive oil (or a 13 by 4 by 4-inch pain de mie pan). Cut a rectangular piece of parchment paper the size of the bottom of the pan, place inside, and grease that as well.
2 Whisk together the pumpernickel and whole wheat flours and the salt in a large bowl. Sprinkle the rye berries across. Make a well in the center. Thoroughly combine the water, oil, and molasses in a liquid measuring cup or in a medium bowl with a fork. Add the water mixture to the center of flour mixture. Stir, using a wooden spoon or a dough whisk, until a dense and heavy, claylike mass forms (you will need a strong arm here!). Scrape the dough into the pan. Moisten your hands with water and press it gently but firmly into the form including the corners, and even out the top. Run your fingers lengthwise along the top of the loaf to create shallow ridges. Cover the pan loosely with waxed paper (or with the lid). Let sit at room temperature for at least 18 to 24 hours and up to 28 hours (see sidebar). The loaf should feel slightly puffy when gently pressed (it might have a few cracks). If you look closely, it will have risen a bit, at best a scant ½ inch.
3 The next day, bring a large kettle with about 6 cups of water to a boil. Meanwhile, position 1 rack in the center of the oven and a second rack just below it. Place an empty roasting pan on the lower rack. Preheat the oven to 225°F. Remove the waxed paper and seal the loaf pan with a double layer of aluminum foil (or with the lid). Partially slide out the lower rack. Carefully fill the roasting pan with about ½ inch of boiling water. Place the loaf pan with the dough on the center rack.
4 Bake for 4 hours and then remove the foil and check for doneness. The loaf will have risen nicely, and the top should be darkened and firmed up (it should resist when gently pressed with a finger). If not ready, reseal it, bake for 15 more minutes, and then check again.
5 Return the uncovered loaf to the oven and increase the temperature to 325°F. Add more boiling water to the roasting pan if necessary. Continue baking until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the loaf registers 205°F, about 20 more minutes.
6 Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool for 5 to 8 minutes, and then loosen the edges with a knife and unmold the pumpernickel (smell the sweetness!). Remove the parchment paper and return the bread to the wire rack to cool completely, at least 2 hours. Wrap in a clean dish towel and allow to sit at cool room temperature for at least 4 more hours and preferably overnight before cutting into thin slices, using a very sharp serrated knife.
TO TIME IT: Two days ahead in the morning, soak the rye berries. Combine the dough (as in steps 1 and 2) in the early evening of the same day. Bake the loaf (as in steps 3, 4, and 5) on the next day by noon, or at the latest by early evening. Allow to cool and rest overnight. Cut and enjoy on the third day.
NO YEAST—JUST NATURAL LEAVENERS
This pumpernickel dough rises without any help from rising agents such as commercial yeast or baking powder. Instead, it gets a lift through natural leavening, activated