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Never ever say you are serving millet for dinner, unless the trend gods declare it the next super grain. I’m working on this. For now, I continue to hide it whenever possible, as too many of us still consider millet to be bird food. Here, lots of garden-fresh herbs and a good-quality yogurt will do the trick, creating a refreshing and creamy summer side. Adding the seeds of a chile gives a nice kick. If you have a few fresh sage leaves, chop them finely and toss them in as well. Serve with sautéed shrimp, which you can drizzle with a bit of lemon. Any leftovers will harden in the fridge, but a quick warming in the microwave will restore this side’s softness. SERVES 4

MILLET

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup chopped green onions (about 3), dark green parts reserved and finely chopped

1 bay leaf

1 cup millet

2 cups water

¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

TO FINISH

1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt

¼ cup packed finely chopped basil

¼ cup packed finely chopped mint

½ serrano chile with seeds, minced

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Finely grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish

1 To make the millet, heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the green onions (the oil might splatter!) and the bay leaf and cook, stirring frequently, until the green onions wilt but do not turn brown, about 2 minutes. Add the millet and cook, stirring, until hot to the touch, 2 to 3 minutes.

2 Add the water and salt and bring to a boil, stirring once. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the water is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the bay leaf.

3 To finish, stir in the yogurt, herbs, chile, and pepper. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper. Garnish with all or some of dark green onion tops and serve right away, passing the grated cheese.

TO VARY IT: Feel free to combine any fresh herbs you have at home, such as dill and parsley, dill and mint, or basil and parsley.

Spring Pilaf with Artichokes and Green Peas

This quick dinner side is perfect for the days when you are tired, overworked, and simply done with the day. Most of the ingredients come from the freezer or the pantry—and they combine quickly for an invigorating meal. Sweet green peas, artichoke hearts, and any fresh herbs on hand will remind you why cooking beats takeout. No green onions? Yellow onions will do. And artichoke hearts marinated in olive oil work just as well. I use instant brown rice here for a quick dinner. Adjust the amount of broth according to the package directions. Of course, this pilaf is most delicious with your own parboiled brown rice (see “to vary it” below). Pair with grilled chicken or sautéed shrimp. SERVES 4

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup chopped green onions (about 6)

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary, or 1 teaspoon dried

1 clove garlic, minced

2 cups instant brown rice

1¾ cups low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth

1 cup green peas (do not thaw if using frozen)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or flat-leaf parsley, plus 2 tablespoons for garnish

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 quarters artichoke hearts, jarred or frozen (do not thaw)

Finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese, for serving

1 Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the green onions and ¼ teaspoon of the salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the dark green parts wilt but do not brown, about 2 minutes. Add the rosemary and garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the rice and stir until the kernels are coated with oil. Add the broth, and stir in the green peas and 2 tablespoons dill. Season with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and the pepper; nestle the artichoke pieces into the rice and bring to a boil.

2 Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the liquid is absorbed, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let sit for 5 minutes.

3 Taste and adjust for salt and pepper. Serve, sprinkled with the remaining 2 tablespoons dill and passing