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Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [69]

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Add the onion, carrots, celery, garlic, 1 teaspoon of the rosemary, the bay leaves, chile, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add ¼ cup of the white wine, and cook until syrupy and the liquid is almost gone, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, the water, the remaining 1¼ cups white wine, the pepper, and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt; bring to a boil. Cook, uncovered, at a lively simmer until the carrots are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the sugar.

4 Add the mussels and the farro together with the remaining 1 teaspoon rosemary to the pot and bring to a boil. Cover and steam over medium to medium-high heat, shaking the pot once or twice in between, until the mussels open, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, and discard any unopened mussels.

5 To finish, add the lemon juice. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust. Drizzle the mussels with the olive oil and serve right away in deep plates, garnished with parsley and with lemon wedges on the side.

TO GET A HEAD START: Make the farro, as in step 1, ahead. The stew, as in step 3, can be prepared up to 3 days ahead. Reheat before adding the mussels and farro, as in step 4. The mussels should be bought the day they are cooked. For a speedy, light dish, omit the farro altogether, and do not add the water to the stew.

TO VARY IT: Easily available and affordable pearl barley plumps up nicely to compete with farro in this dish, or simply use leftover brown rice. You will need about 2 cups cooked grain (see cooking instructions).

Fish and Fennel Stew with Ouzo over Couscous

Every passionate cook knows that a swig of alcohol in the saucepan mightily rewards the eater later on. In Greece, this kick inevitably comes from the popular anise-flavored spirit ouzo, which adds a blissful licorice touch to this fish stew. I like to serve this dish in the summer or fall when fennel, with its delicate feathery fronds, is at its peak. Be sure to keep a handful of the aromatic sprigs for garnish (and save the rest to flavor soups and salads). SERVES 6

STEW

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1½ cups chopped yellow onion (about 1 medium)

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 large bay leaf

2 medium fennel bulbs (about 1½ pounds), cored, quartered, and thinly sliced crosswise (about 4 cups)

¼ cup ouzo or other anise-flavored liqueur

2 cups vegetable broth

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes

1½ pounds skinned halibut, mahi mahi, tilapia, or other white-fleshed fish, patted dry and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

COUSCOUS

1½ cups water

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil or unsalted butter

¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

1¼ cups whole wheat couscous

TO FINISH

½ to 1 teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup finely chopped fennel fronds

1 To make the stew, heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaf, and fennel and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Add the ouzo and cook until syrupy and almost no liquid remains, about 2 minutes. Add the broth and tomatoes and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the vegetables are crisp-tender, 15 to 17 minutes.

2 While the stew simmers, place the fish in a large glass or other nonreactive bowl. Allow to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes, and then drizzle with the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Set aside for a few minutes.

3 Meanwhile, make the couscous. Pour the water, olive oil, and salt into a heavy medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Stir in the couscous, cover, and let sit until the liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes.

4 To finish, add the fish to the stew, stir—gently to keep the pieces intact—and return to a simmer. Cook, leaving the lid slightly askew, until the fish is fork-tender and

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