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TO GET A HEAD START: Use parboiled brown rice and finish cooking it when you start the stew. The stew, up through step 4, can be made 1 day ahead. Chill, covered. Gently warm just to a simmer over medium heat, adding a bit more water or broth to thin if needed. Finish as in step 5.

Lamb Stew with Wheat Berries in Red Wine Sauce

One of the first meals I learned to cook when I moved away from home was lamb stew. I couldn't imagine living without the enticing pungent sweetness of lamb, the meat I most closely associate with lavish feasts and festive meals in Greece. I always add a pinch of cinnamon, common in Greece and Turkey for tomato-based meat dishes. This one-pot meal can be completely prepared ahead—perfect for an evening with friends. Serve the stew with garlic-infused yogurt spooned on top, and with a crusty bread or baguette to mop up the flavorful raisin-spiked sauce. For maximum flavor, prepare the garlic yogurt a day ahead. SERVES 4 TO 6

WHEAT BERRIES

2 cups water

1 cup soft whole wheat berries, soaked overnight and drained

GARLIC YOGURT

1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt

2 cloves garlic, minced

Fine sea salt

STEW, AND TO FINISH

1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes

1 cup dry red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon

2 tablespoons good-quality balsamic vinegar, plus extra for seasoning

½ teaspoon paprika

1¼ pounds lamb shoulder, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoons (or more) extra-virgin olive oil

1½ cups chopped onion (about 1 medium)

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced lengthwise

1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 pound carrots, cut ¼ inch thick (about 3 cups)

¾ cup dark raisins

1 teaspoon brown sugar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 To prepare the wheat berries, bring the water and the wheat berries to a boil in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the wheat berries are tender with a slight chew, about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside to steam for 10 to 15 minutes, if you have time. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid (about ½ cup).

2 Meanwhile, prepare the garlic yogurt. Beat the yogurt in a small bowl with a fork until smooth. Stir in the garlic and season with salt. Chill, covered, until ready to serve.

3 To make the stew, place the tomatoes with their juices, wine, vinegar, and paprika in a large bowl. Using a wooden spoon or your hands, gently crush the tomatoes and combine the mixture.

4 Pat the lamb dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working in 2 or 3 batches, cook the lamb until browned on all sides, adding a bit more oil if the pan goes dry, about 5 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a plate. Decrease the heat to medium; add the onion, garlic, cinnamon, bay leaf, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring constantly, until the onion softens, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 30 seconds, stirring. Add the tomato mixture (it may splatter!), the meat with its accumulated juices, the carrots, and the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt, scraping the bottom of the pot. Bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook for 30 minutes.

5 Add the raisins, the wheat berries, and, if needed, enough of the reserved cooking liquid to just cover the vegetables (the tips of the carrots will show). Return to a boil. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the lamb is fork-tender, about 40 minutes. Add more cooking liquid or water to thin, if you like.

6 To finish, season with the brown sugar and pepper, as well as a dash more balsamic vinegar. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve with the garlic yogurt spooned on top or alongside.

TO GET A HEAD START: Make wheat berries, as in step 1, ahead. Or cook the soaked wheat berries while you assemble the ingredients.