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Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [74]

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mushy more easily. Green lentils, also called French or Puy, have a firmer texture, as do black Beluga lentils. A surprise ingredient—soy sauce, with its deep umami flavor—lends an earthy finish. Serve on its own or with crusty sourdough bread, with a dab of butter. SERVES 4

GRAIN-LENTIL MIXTURE

2 cups water

¼ cup hulled barley, soaked overnight and drained

¼ cup pearl barley

¼ cup green or black lentils, picked over and rinsed

1 large bay leaf

1 dried red chile

STEW, AND TO FINISH

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 ounces prosciutto, chopped (about 1 cup)

2 medium leeks, white and light green parts, sliced ¼ inch thick (about 3 cups)

½ pound cremini mushrooms, halved if large, and sliced ¼ inch thick (3 cups)

½ bunch chard or spinach, leaves chopped (about 2 cups) and stems sliced ¼ inch thick

2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed

2 teaspoons dried marjoram

1 teaspoon dried crumbled oregano

½ cup chopped fresh dill

2 cups vegetable broth

1 cup water

1 corner Parmesan cheese rind (optional)

2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce, plus extra for seasoning

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup sour cream or plain whole-milk Greek yogurt, beaten until smooth

1 To parboil the grain-lentil mixture, bring the water, both kinds of barley, lentils, bay leaf, and chile to a boil in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook for 20 minutes.

2 Meanwhile, start the stew. Line a small plate with paper towels. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add the prosciutto and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned and crisp, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer ¼ cup of the prosciutto to the paper-lined plate and set aside.

3 Add the leeks, mushrooms, chard stems, and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften and mushrooms release much of their liquid, about 3 minutes. Add the dried herbs and cook for 1 minute, then stir in ¼ cup of the dill. Add the broth, water, Parmesan rind, 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce, and the pepper.

4 Transfer the parboiled grains and lentils, including any remaining cooking liquid, to the vegetables and bring everything to a boil. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the barley is tender but still slightly chewy, about 20 minutes.

5 To finish the stew, remove the Parmesan rind, bay leaf, and chile, and season with the remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce. Taste and adjust for pepper (I like to spice it up a bit), salt, or soy sauce (don’t add both, as soy sauce is very salty). Stir in the chard leaves, drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, and remove the saucepan from the heat. Let sit, covered, for 3 to 5 minutes to allow the leaves to soften.

6 Ladle the stew into bowls. Garnish each serving with a dollop of sour cream, a bit of the reserved crisped prosciutto, and some of the remaining ¼ cup dill. Serve right away.

TO GET A HEAD START: Barley and lentils, as in step 1, can be parboiled 3 days ahead. Do not drain. Cover and chill. The stew, up through step 5, can be prepared 1 day ahead. Chill, covered.

TO MAKE IT VEGETARIAN: Simply omit the prosciutto.


SAVORY STEMS

Many recipes call for only the leaves of chard, spinach, or kale and discard a sweet and delicious part of the vegetable, the stems. I always chop them finely and add them right at the start, together with the onions for example, for a richer base in stews, stir-fries, or frittatas.

Fire-Roasted Tomato Stew with Eggplant and Farro

A trio of tomatoes—oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, tomato paste, and fire-roasted tomatoes—coupled with a hearty beef broth gives this stew an opulent intensity. Soft, pliable eggplant, plump, sweet raisins, and a hint of cinnamon are combined with nutty, sweet farro, alluring even in the dead of winter when tomatoes come from a can (see more on varieties of farro). A few parsnips, once forgotten in my vegetable drawer during a bone-chilling February, are a surprisingly delicious

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