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Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [80]

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heat, stirring a few times. Remove from the heat, cover, and let sit at room temperature until the liquid is absorbed, about 1 hour. Transfer the oats to a large bowl and spread to cool for about 10 minutes.

2 To make the cakes, add the Brie and all the remaining ingredients to the bowl with the oats. Using your hands, thoroughly combine the mixture until the ingredients come together.

3 Level the mixture inside the bowl and divide it into 8 equal portions using a butter knife (cut in half like a cake, and then each half into quarters). Moisten your hands with water and form cakes about 3 inches in diameter. Place the cakes on a small baking sheet or large plate.

4 To make the sauce, combine the yogurt, ketchup, and red chile in a small bowl. Season with salt to taste.

5 To finish, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat until it shimmers. Add 4 cakes and cook 4 to 5 minutes on each side or until golden brown, carefully turning once with a metal spatula. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and repeat with the second batch. Serve warm or at room temperature, together with the yogurt-ketchup sauce.

TO GET A HEAD START: Make the oats, as in step 1, ahead. The cakes, up through step 3, can be prepared 6 hours ahead. Chill, covered.

TO LIGHTEN IT UP: Bake the burgers instead of pan-frying.

Lamb Burgers with Bulgur and Mint

These are the richly spiced juicy meatballs of the Middle East, often prepared with lamb, known as kofta. Bulgur gives them texture; cumin and a hint of cinnamon are classic seasonings. I serve them with a garlic-spiked yogurt (the Greek in me adds four cloves per cup of yogurt), but ketchup or mustard can top them off as well. Or vary with any of the other yogurt toppings, such as the Spicy Yogurt Topping, the Yogurt-Ketchup Sauce, or the lemony yogurt dip replacing the fresh dill with mint to fit the bill. MAKES 6 BURGERS, TO SERVE 6

BULGUR

¾ cup medium-coarse or coarse bulgur

1½ cups hot water

BURGERS

1 pound ground lamb

1 cup grated yellow onion (about 1 medium)

½ cup finely chopped fresh mint

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper, or 2 pinches cayenne pepper

1 Place the bulgur in a large bowl and cover with the hot water. Let sit at room temperature until much of the water is absorbed and the kernels are tender with a bit of chew, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain the bulgur in a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on the kernels with your hands to squeeze out as much water as you can.

2 Position a rack about 6 inches from the heat and preheat the broiler. Oil a 12-inch cast-iron skillet or the bottom of a broiler pan.

3 Return the bulgur to the bowl; add the lamb and all remaining ingredients. Combine the mixture thoroughly but gently with your hands, trying to handle as little as possible. Shape into 6 voluptuous burgers, each about 3 inches in diameter, and place them in a single layer in the prepared skillet or broiler pan.

4 To finish, brush the burgers with olive oil and broil until they start browning on the top, about 10 minutes. Flip using a metal spatula, brush with oil again, and broil until nicely browned, about 5 more minutes. Allow to sit for a few minutes—as the meat cools you will be better able to taste the herbs and spices.

TO GET A HEAD START: You can soak and drain the bulgur, as in step 1, a day ahead. Chill, covered. The burgers can be shaped up to 6 hours ahead. Place on a small baking sheet or a large plate, cover with plastic wrap, and chill.

TO LIGHTEN IT: Have your butcher grind leg of lamb for leaner burgers. Brush the burgers generously with oil and broil a little less, about 12 minutes total.

TO VARY IT: For a flavor boost, brush minted olive oil butter or rosemary oil on the burgers instead of olive oil.

Buckwheat-Feta Burgers with Tangy Parsley Sauce

Buckwheat, a mild, quick-cooking staple much loved in eastern Europe, gets a Mediterranean

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